The restaurant that started the Stein dynasty, and still one of Cornwall's top places to dine. Stein senior rarely puts in any hours these days – Rick's son Jack runs the show. As ever, fish is the raison d'être: from fresh lobster to turbot, John Dory and fruits de mer, all served in an elegant, light-filled dining room.
You'll generally need to book months in advance, although last-minute lunch tables sometimes crop up.