Most travelers race down the Carretera Interamericana in search of El Salvador's western attractions or, if heading east, the Nicaraguan border. However, the wild east of the country is a diverse geographical region that warrants greater consideration.
The quaint village of Alegría, the visceral war history around Morazán and the long, sandy surf beaches near El Cuco and Las Flores will give even the most worldly traveler something to savor. They see only fleeting traffic from nearby cities such as San Miguel, a city with a distinctly cavalier attitude. Real off-the-beaten-track coastal adventure is found at Bahía de Jiquilisco, where birdlife soars, and in tiny fishing villages with little contact with the outside world.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Eastern El Salvador.
Museum
A few blocks north of the park is this excellent little museum that charts the causes and course of the Salvadoran civil war. Highlights include the collection of antiwar posters from throughout the world, the stark color photos of life inside guerrilla camps, the incredible assortment of Soviet and US weapons, and the stories of those who died in action; there is also a crater left by a 500lb bomb. It makes for a somber, stirring visit.
Museum
This reconstructed guerrilla camp features tatús (cave hideouts) and underground shelters connected by rickety rope bridges and dirt tracks in a patch of partially cleared woodland. It's next to the museum, uphill and to the north of the main square.
Archaeological Site
Archaeology buffs will appreciate the Ruinas de Quelepa, grassy mounds covering 40 terraced ceremonial platforms, largely unexcavated. Lenca inhabited the site between the 2nd and 7th centuries AD, trading with Copán in Honduras as well as with Mexico. To visit the site, you must first go to the mayor's office in Quelepa and request a police escort. The ruins are 2.5km outside town.
Lake
About 40km southeast of San Miguel is a pretty lake on which you can catch a small boat (US$15 to US$40) to minuscule Los Cerritos Island. It's great for swimming and fishing in a place of great significance to the area's original inhabitants. A taxi is your best chance of making the 30-minute trip (US$10 one way).
Museum
The small collection of pottery includes pieces found at Quelepa, with explanations in English and Spanish. There's not much to see here but the exhibitions are well thought out, and the museum is probably the best attraction in the city itself.
Lake
The scenic crater lake La Laguna de Alegría is a 2km uphill walk from town, with some stunning views along the way. The lake's icy waters are said to be medicinal. There's a 2km trail around the lake.
Theater
Recent renovations have spruced up this neoclassical gem. It functioned as a cinema during the silent-film era and later as the Telecom headquarters and a public hospital.
Cathedral
Facing Parque David J Guzmán, San Miguel’s cathedral dates from the 18th century.