After Quito, Cuenca is Ecuador’s most important colonial city. But don’t say that to the locals, who insist that their laid-back culture, cleaner streets and more agreeable weather outclass the capital, hands down.
Dating from the 16th century, Cuenca’s historic center, a Unesco World Heritage Site with its trademark skyline of massive rotundas and soaring steeples, is a place time keeps forgetting: nuns march along cobblestone streets, kids in Catholic-school uniforms skip past historic churches, and old ladies gaze upon this civic theater from their geranium-filled balconies.
The city is the center of many craft traditions, including ceramics, metalwork and the internationally famous panama hat – and the nearby villages offer many more handicrafts besides.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Cuenca.
Museum
One of Ecuador's most significant museums, Pumapungo houses great modern art downstairs, but the highlight is on the 2nd floor. Here begins a comprehensive voyage through Ecuador's diverse indigenous cultures, with colorfully animated dioramas and reconstructions of typical houses of Afro-Ecuadorians from Esmeraldas province, the cowboy-like montubios (coastal farmers) of the western lowlands, several rainforest groups and all major highland groups.
Museum
This indigenous culture museum has more than 5000 archaeological pieces representing more than 20 pre-Columbian Ecuadorian cultures going back some 15,000 years. But what makes this such a gem of a museum is the informative self-guided tour – touching upon such unexpected items as combs, obsidian mirrors and cooking equipment, as well as explaining the striking designs. A peaceful courtyard cafe sells wickedly strong coffee.
Church
Standing across the park from the new cathedral, the whitewashed El Sagrario is also known as the 'old cathedral.' Construction began in 1557, the year Cuenca was founded, and in 1739 La Condamine’s expedition used its towers as a triangulation point to measure the shape of the earth. It's been deconsecrated and serves as a religious museum and recital hall.
Viewpoint
For a lovely view of Cuenca, take a taxi ($5) 4km south of town along Avenida Solano to the stark white Church of Turi. The views of Cuenca’s famous, romantic skyline are especially pretty at sunset and on November and December evenings, when the city fires up the Christmas lights.
Church
Also known as the ‘new cathedral,’ construction began on this vast cathedral only in 1885. Its giant domes of sky-blue Czech tile are visible from all over Cuenca, and if it looks like the bell towers are bit short, that’s because they are – a design error made the intended height of the belfries impossible for the building to support.
Park
Walk through the extensive ruins of buildings believed to be part the old Incan city of Tomebamba. Thanks to the Spanish conquistadors who carted off most of the stone to build Cuenca, there’s not much left – but the park is good for a gander and a stroll with perhaps a stop at the snack bar at the bottom.
Museum
Housed in the former Escuela Central la Inmaculada, this beautifully preserved colonial building has been revamped with sleek, contemporary lines to house art exhibitions in its salons. Of particular interest is the fascinating and thought-provoking video art, often with controversial themes.
Park
About 1km south of the Old Town's La Escalinita staircase, this peacefully wending river has tree-clad bankside green space perfect for a picnic. Upriver, at the confluence with the city's third waterway, Río Tarqui, is a diverting botanical garden. A taxi here costs $1.50.
Museum
Just down the stairs on the riverbank, the Inter-American Traditional Art Center exhibits indigenous costumes, handicrafts and artwork from around Latin America and has a classy, well-priced crafts store.