Quito

With its narrow streets, restored colonial architecture and lively plazas, Quito’s Centro Histórico is a marvel to wander. Built centuries ago by indigenous artisans and laborers, Quito’s churches, convents, chapels and monasteries are cast in legend and steeped in history. It’s a bustling area, full of yelling street vendors, ambling pedestrians, tooting taxis, belching buses and whistle-blowing police officers trying to direct traffic in the narrow one-way streets. The area is magical; it's a place where the more you look, the more you find.

Churches are open daily (usually until 6pm), but are crowded with worshippers on Sunday. They regularly close between 1pm and 3pm for lunch.

The heart of the Old Town is the Plaza Grande, a picturesque, palm-fringed square surrounded by historic buildings and bustling with everyday life.

La Ronda – a completely restored narrow cobblestone lane lined with postcard-perfect 17th-century buildings housing festive restaurants, bars and colorful shops – comes alive on Friday and Saturday nights when canelazo (aguardiente with hot cider and cinnamon) vendors keep the crowds nice and warm and live music spills outdoors. Placards along the walls describe (in Spanish) some of the street’s history and the artists, writers and political figures who once resided here.

One of the most important works of art in South America, Ecuadorian artist Oswaldo Guayasamín’s Capilla del Hombre stands next to the Casa Museo Guayasamín. The fruit of Guayasamín’s greatest vision, this giant monument-cum-museum is a tribute to humankind, to the suffering of Latin America’s indigenous poor and to the undying hope for something better. It’s a moving place and tours (in English, French and Spanish, included in the price) are highly recommended. Admission includes entrance to the Casa Museo.

For spectacular views over Quito’s mountainous landscape, hop aboard this sky tram, one of the world's highest aerial lifts, that takes passengers on a 2.5km ride (10 minutes) up the flanks of Volcán Pichincha to the top of Cruz Loma. Once you’re at the top (a mere 4100m), you can hike to the summit of Rucu Pichincha (4680m), a 4km (five-hour) round-trip – ask about the safety situation before attempting the climb and bring warm clothes.

Located in the circular, glass-plated, landmark building of the Casa de la Cultura is one of the country’s largest collections of Ecuadorian art, with magnificent works of pre-Hispanic and colonial religious art. The museum collection includes more than 1000 ceramic pieces dating from 12,000 BC to AD 1534, with highlights being ‘whistle bottles’ from the Chorrera culture, figures showing skull deformation practiced by the Machalilla culture, wild serpent bowls from the Jama-Coaque and ceramic representations of tzantzas (shrunken heads).

To sample some of Quito's most authentic and traditional cooking, head to this attractive park in La Floresta where every evening food stalls are set up selling freshly prepared tripa mishqui (grilled cow intestines), seco de pollo (chicken stew), empanadas and morocho (a kind of spiced corn porridge). Stall holders are happy to let you taste before you buy.

At the center of the Mitad del Mundo stands the centerpiece of the park: a 30m-high, stone trapezoidal monument topped by a brass globe containing a viewing platform and a museum, which provides a good introduction to the indígena peoples of Ecuador through dioramas, clothing displays and photographs. On the lower floors are new interactive exhibits examining the science behind the myths of the equator.

Well worth the trip out here, Ananké is a stylish and warmly lit bar/pizzeria with small, colorfully decorated rooms spread out over an old two-story house. It has a small terrace (complete with fireplace) and several good nooks for hiding away with a beer and a few friends. When the fog clears, the views over Guápulo are superb.

These guys from Oregon produce their own creative brews such as La Gran Calabaza Imperial Pumpkin Ale (made with cinnamon, cloves and pumpkin spice) and La Gua.Pa (an American Pale Ale flavored with guayusa, a tea leaf native to the Ecuadorian Amazon). The bar has a vaguely Gothic feel, with stone walls, wooden benches and even a small chapel.