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Timor-Leste
With hardly-touched 'best-in-the-world' reefs to dive, dugongs to spot, mountains to climb, and ancient traditions that have survived the ravages of war, Asia’s newest country offers some of the world’s last great off-the-beaten-track adventures.
Get an insight into Timor-Leste's dark history in Dili’s museums, then venture out of the capital. Hike to jungle caves, wander through misty mountain village markets, and sip local coffee on the terrace of grand Portuguese pousadas. Bump along diabolical roads, stopping for photos of the seascapes as you grip the cliffs along the coast.
Strap on a snorkel and marvel at the pristine reefs that fringe the north coast and Ataúro, or delve deeper with dive companies that are proud to show off sites with superlative reef fish biodiversity. Trailblaze your way through this amazing country, and find out what everyone else has been missing.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Timor-Leste.
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Centro Nacional Chega!
Set in the buildings and cells of a Portuguese-era prison where resistance figures were interned by the Indonesian military, Chega! ( chega means 'stop' or 'no more' in Portuguese) houses the results of the Commission for Reception, Truth & Reconciliation (CAVR) process – documenting human rights abuses from 1974 to 1999. A series of panels and photos details various elements of the violence in now-peaceful surrounds. It's best to book a visit (which includes a free tour) ahead, or go with Dili History Tours. Don't miss the gripping photographs displayed in the library, and the 'dark cells' that are a reminder of the human-rights violations that occurred here.
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Resistência Timorense Arquivo e Museu
An excellent museum which commemorates in detail Timor-Leste's 24-year struggle against Indonesian occupation. Falintil’s resistance is brought to life with a timeline, photos, video recordings and exhibits of the weapons and tools of communication that the East Timorese used in their fight for independence. You can watch harrowing footage of the Santa Cruz Massacre here and see the poignant possessions of some of the murdered. Next door is a memorial garden; at the time of research an eternal flame and further commemorative museum was under construction.
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Mundo Perdido
Crashing through foliage under the squawks of bats and lorikeets as you climb Mundo Perdido (1775m) – which translates to 'Lost World' – is one of the country's highlights. The view of sunrise from the grassy plateau near the top (1380m) is worth the 4am wake-up call. Local guide Xisto (7786 7272 or 7836 3979) charges US$10 a group. The starting point is near Ossu, 20 to 30 minutes from Loi Hunu. From there, the 6km hike takes two hours return.
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Santa Cruz Cemetery
On 12 November 1991 Indonesian soldiers fired on a peaceful memorial procession for Sebastião Gomes heading from Motael Church to Santa Cruz Cemetery; Gomes was an independence supporter who was shot by Indonesian police. More than 250 civilians (mostly students) died. British journalist Max Stahl filmed the bloody attack; the smuggled footage was beamed around the world, empowering the nation's independence struggle. Nearly every inch of the cemetery is occupied by elaborate, pasted-hued gravestones. Head to the Max Stahl archive to see footage of the attack.
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Dili Waterfront
Watch kids kicking soccer balls around on the patches of sandy beach and runners sweating it out while you're strolling the decent walking path that runs along the waterfront. The grand Palácio do Governo is a highlight, as is Farol lighthouse to the west. Further west, oversized embassies take up space next to small expat-owned bars.
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Cristo Rei
The hard-to-miss Cristo Rei, 7km east of town, has 570 steps leading to the statue of Jesus, a gift from the Indonesian government in 1996. It's a popular morning and evening exercise spot, with mountain and water views. Catch blue mikrolet No 12 or a taxi (US$5) to get here (ask the taxi driver to wait). On the other side of the promontory, you can descend to another lovely white-sand beach.
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Areia Branca
This lovely cove 5.5km east of central Dili is picturesque, with its white sand backed by steep hills and good places to eat and sleep. At the end of the beach, the statue of Cristo Rei is a local landmark. On the other side of it is another excellent, quieter beach. Mikrolet No 12 heads to Areia Branca; catch it heading north on Rua de Bé-Mori.
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Dare Memorial Museum
There are two great things about Dare (pronounced da-ray) Memorial Museum, but you'll have to ask for them. First, ask for a cup of Timorese coffee, then to watch the excellent video documenting Timor-Leste's involvement in WWII including the Timorese who helped Australian troops before being left to face the repercussions from the Japanese once the Australians departed.
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Igreja de Santo António de Motael
This waterfront Catholic church, fronted by a pretty garden, was one of the most important places in the story of the fight for Timorese independence. Sebastião Gomes was shot dead here in 1991 by the Indonesian military; his funeral parade to Santa Cruz Cemetery attracted thousands and resulted in the Santa Cruz Massacre.