Timor-Leste

This island, some 24km from Dili over a 3km-deep channel, hit the spotlight in 2016 after Conservation International announced that it had the most biodiverse waters in the world. According to their research, Ataúro has the most species of reef fish per site, with globally superlative reef fish biodiversity.

Many of the reefs are accessible from the shore, or you can share the cost of a charter to get a bit further out for around US$10. As well as the diving and snorkelling day trips run here from Dili, Ataúro now has its own dive backpackers, so you can make the most of the relaxed island vibe and get your fill of pretty coral and fish, too.

Tutuala village is set on a bluff, with sweeping views out to sea from a renovated Portuguese pousada. Nearby, just off the road to Valu, are rock art caves. They're signposted, but it's best to go with a guide. Down the hill, Valu has a picturesque white-sand beach, while a left after the 8km descent will take you to the thatched cabins of community-run Valu Sere. Fall asleep listening to waves lapping and wake to the stunning vision of Jaco Island, just across the turquoise waters. Development (and overnight stays) are prohibited on this sacred isle, but fishers will take you across for US$10 return. Once you arrive, you're officially on a deserted tropical island. The water is crystal clear and there's excellent snorkelling along the coral drop-off.

Inland from Batugade is the pleasant mountain town of Balibó. Terrific views and the old trees lining the good road down to Maliana give the area a cool mountain feel, but it's best known as the town where five Australia-based journalists were killed by Indonesian soldiers in October 1975.

The Australian flag the journalists painted for protection is still visible (just) on Balibó Flag House, which now houses a memorial, cafe and community facilities. Here, you can watch Greg Shackleton's final, chilling broadcast. The Australian film Balibo (2009) was based on these tragic, and still unresolved, murders.

A restored 18th-century Portuguese fort stands on the hill opposite, housing a small gallery and the excellent Balibó Fort Hotel, which opened in 2015.

Crashing through foliage under the squawks of bats and lorikeets as you climb Mundo Perdido (1775m) – which translates to 'Lost World' – is one of the country's highlights. The view of sunrise from the grassy plateau near the top (1380m) is worth the 4am wake-up call. Local guide Xisto (7786 7272 or 7836 3979) charges US$10 a group. The starting point is near Ossu, 20 to 30 minutes from Loi Hunu. From there, the 6km hike takes two hours return.