East Africa

In this most superlative of East African parks, time often seems to stand still. The Seronera River and its hinterland could just be the easiest place on earth to encounter wildlife at any time of the year. But this is a vast park, one that rewards those who linger with enough time to spare for the southern kopjes standing sentinel out over the eternal plains, the fine rock-and-river prospects of the Grumeti River in the west, and the endless plains and Mara River in the north.

It’s difficult to resist the allure of climbing Africa’s highest peak, one of the Holy Grails of East African travel with its snow-capped summit, views over the surrounding plains and otherworldly gravitas. It's at once one of Africa's most rewarding hikes and an iconic African experience. If you can't make the summit, there are other great ways to experience the mountain. Day-hike on the lush lower slopes, spend time learning about local Chagga culture or sip a sundowner from a nearby vantage point with the mountain as a backdrop.

Stone Town, the historic quarter of Zanzibar Town, never loses its beguiling call of the exotic. First you’ll see the skyline, with the spires of St Joseph’s Cathedral and the Old Fort. Then wander through narrow alleyways that reveal surprises at every turn. Linger at shops scented with cloves, watch men wearing kanzu (a white robe-like outer garment) play the game bao, and admire intricate henna designs on the hands of women in their black cover-all bui-bui. Island rhythms quickly take over as mainland life slips away.

Welcome to one of the greatest shows on earth. The pounding hooves draw closer, and then, suddenly, thousands of wildebeest stampede by, sweeping across the plains of the Serengeti National Park in Tanzania (from October to July) and the Masai Mara in Kenya (from July to October). Wherever you catch up with them, you'll find up to a million of these ungainly animals along with herds of zebras, elephants and giraffes. With predators never far away, this is natural drama on an epic scale.

Nothing can really prepare you for that first moment when you find yourself in the midst of a family of mountain gorillas. It’s an utterly humbling experience, sharing the forest with the silverback, whose sheer size and presence will leave you in awe, or with adorable fuzzy babies clowning about and tumbling from trees. The term ‘once in a lifetime’ is bandied about a lot, but gorilla tracking in Volcanoes National Park is one experience where it just happens to be true.

With rapids that go by names like A Bad Place or Dead Dutchman, the idea of being flung head-on into surging torrents of water sounds like a nightmare. But for those who’ve experienced it, it’s one of the most exciting things they’ve done in Africa. Things start off as a leisurely paddle along the source of the Nile River close to Jinja. The next thing you know you’re looking up at a towering wave that mercilessly smashes upon you. It’s breathtaking stuff and a ridiculous amount of fun.

With no fewer than 13 species of primates, a rich tapestry of birdlife and a degree of biodiversity seldom found elsewhere, Nyungwe Forest National Park is one of Africa’s most important conservation areas. The vast forest is home to numerous primate species, including habituated chimpanzees and a huge troop of colobus monkeys. Whether hiking through this equatorial rainforest in search of our evolutionary kin or just in search of a waterfall, Nyungwe is guaranteed to nurture your inner Tarzan.

Studded with flat-top acacia trees, the rolling savannahs of the Masai Mara National Reserve support some of the highest concentrations of wildlife on the planet. The great herds of wildebeest may bring sound and movement to the plains, but it's the big cats – the Marsh Pride of lions, lords of their domain, the leopards lurking in riverine thickets and the cheetahs surveying the world from a termite mound before exploding into a chase – who are the Mara's most soulful inhabitants.

Traversing muddy paths, stumbling over twisted roots and making your way through dense vegetation – chimpanzee tracking can be hard work. But oh my, is it worth it, and the struggle and sweat is all but forgotten as chimpanzees become visible in a clearing ahead and then draw near in curiosity – you could almost reach out and touch them. Of the four places to see habituated chimps in East Africa, Kibale Forest National Park in Uganda is the best all-round experience.

On clear days, the magic of Ngorongoro begins while you’re still up on the rim. Whether concealed from view by morning mists or bathed in the golden light of sunrise, Ngorongoro seems to echo with the beauty of Africa's first morning. Down in the crater itself, amid hues of blue and green, an unparalleled concentration of iconic African wildlife calls to mind the primeval Africa of our imaginations. Nearby, Ol Doinyo Lengai and Lake Natron are the pick of the fabulous Crater Highlands.

In the shadow of Mt Kenya, Kenya's Laikipia Plateau hosts a network of conservancies and private wildlife reserves – it's both beautiful and one of the most exciting stories in African conservation. At the forefront of efforts to save endangered species such as lions, African wild dogs, Grevy’s zebras and black rhinos, the plateau’s ranches offer an enticing combination of high-end lodge accommodation, big horizons and charismatic megafauna. Best of all, this is a more personal experience than your average national park, with scarcely another vehicle in sight.

Amid the deserts and horizonless tracts that characterise so much of Kenya's north, Lake Turkana glitters like a jade and turquoise mirage. Rising from its waters is Teleki, one of the world's most perfectly shaped volcanic cones, while the shores are dotted with dusty and utterly intriguing villages, such as Loyangalani, that are home to the beguiling mix of traditional peoples – Turkana, Samburu, Gabbra, El Molo – who call this isolated corner of Africa home. And there are crocodiles here. Lots of them.

Known in ancient times as the Mountains of the Moon, the Unesco World Heritage–listed Rwenzoris today retain a powerful sense of being a world apart. Here in tropical Africa, along the continent's highest range of mountains, ice-bound summits swirl into view then disappear, among them Mt Stanley (5109m), Africa's third-highest peak. Rainforest and an extraordinary array of plants, animals and birds – some endemic, a few of them endangered – make for some of East Africa's most challenging yet most rewarding trekking trails.

Vast Selous, with its tropical climate, profusion of greenery and massive Rufiji River, is completely different from Tanzania's northern parks. Take a boat safari, and as you glide past borassus palms, slumbering hippos and cavorting elephants, enjoy the many attractions large and small along the riverbanks. These include birdlife of astonishing richness, vast elephant herds and the largest population of lions on the planet. They're all part of the daily natural symphony in this, one of Africa’s largest wildlife reserves.

East Africa’s Indian Ocean coast is one of Africa’s prettiest shores. Long stretches of white sand, translucent waters and coves sheltered by palm trees would be sufficient reason for most travellers to visit. But trade winds through the centuries have brought an intriguing mix of African and Arab cultures, resulting in a coastline with attitude: at once laid-back in the finest spirit of hakuna matata, yet bristling with ruins and the evocative signposts of Swahili culture. You could pick anywhere, but it's difficult to beat Lamu's Shela beach.

There’s possibly no better place in the world to watch elephants than Amboseli National Park in Kenya’s south. A big part of the appeal is the setting – Africa’s highest mountain, the snow-capped Mt Kilimanjaro, is the backdrop for seemingly every picture you’ll take here. Just as significantly, Amboseli was spared the worst of Kenya’s poaching crisis and these elephants are remarkably tolerant of humans (allowing you to get really close). And their tusks are among the biggest in Kenya. It's also an excellent place to see lions and cheetahs.