In his day, in the early 17th century, the Habsburg general Albrecht of Wallenstein (1583–1634) was a larger-than-life figure and rival to the emperors and kings who depended on his wealth to fund their war-making aims. The enormous Wallenstein Palace (senat.cz) – now home to the Czech Senate (the parliament's upper chamber) – was intended to rival Prague Castle itself and stands as a testament to the man's wealth and immense ego. Access for the general public is limited (normally Saturdays April–October, 9am–4pm), but check the website for an updated schedule. The ceiling fresco in the Baroque Hall shows Wallenstein as a warrior at the reins of a chariot, while the unusual oval Audience Hall has a fresco of Vulcan at work in his forge.
Even if you don't tour the palace itself, take a look at the extraordinary Wallenstein Garden (senat.cz) behind the palace – an immense, unexpected oasis. The garden was created in late-Renaissance style in the 17th century. Aside from ponds, statues and peaceful, manicured greenery, the garden features a huge loggia decorated with scenes from the Trojan Wars. This is flanked on one side by an enormous fake stalactite grotto – as was the fashion back in the day. The gardens are open daily from April to October.
