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Santa Cruz de Tenerife

Whatever you do, don't bypass the bustling capital, the handsome and friendly port of Santa Cruz, in your dash for the beach on Tenerife. Backing onto a superb range of undulating hills, this wholly Spanish city is home to evocative, brightly painted buildings, grand and historic architecture, sophisticated and quirky shops, riveting museums and art galleries, a showstopping auditorium, flashes of bold and vibrant street art, and a tropical oasis of birdsong, fountains and greenery in the city park. Backing all this up are friendly locals, a terrific spread of quality restaurants, as well as an excellent bus and tram system, making Santa Cruz a sensible and convenient base for exploring the sublime landscapes of the island's northeast.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Santa Cruz de Tenerife.

  • Arts Centre

    Tenerife Espacio de las Artes (TEA)

    The highlights of this dramatic contemporary building are the architecture, its three galleries and the stunning library downstairs. The galleries display temporary exhibitions of art, photography and installation works, including the creative output of up-and-coming Spanish artists reflecting edgy, contemporary themes. The building was designed by the Swiss architects and Pritzker Prize Laureates Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron, famed for their innovative construction, with a prestigious portfolio that includes London’s Tate Modern.

  • Notable Building

    Auditorio de Tenerife

    This magnificent, soaring white wave of an auditorium was designed by the internationally renowned Spanish architect Santiago Calatrava, and delivers shades of the Sydney Opera House, plus superb acoustics. Guided 45-minute tours (€7.50; reserved in advance by telephone) in English, German or Spanish take you behind the scenes of the remarkable building.

  • Library

    Biblioteca Municipal Central de Santa Cruz de Tenerife

    This library downstairs at TEA is a design classic, a vast open-plan room with overhanging globular lights, copious natural light, angular lines and a sharp contemporary feel, all fashioned with a sense of uncluttered space that all libraries should emulate. If you’re footsore, there are quiet cubicles (and sofas outside) where you can sit, read or have a snooze, and books and magazines for browsing, including some in English. A kids' library is downstairs

  • Market

    Mercado de Nuestra Señora de África

    Dating from 1944, this tantalising market is housed in an eye-catching building that combines a Latin American feel with Moorish-style arches and patios. A lofty clock tower helps in locating the place – or just follow the shopping baskets; the mercado offers fresh, competitively priced produce, and is the top choice for locals, including restaurateurs. Stalls are spread over two bustling floors and interspersed with colourful flower sellers, kiosks selling churros and lush subtropical greenery.

  • Museum

    Museo de la Naturaleza y el Hombre

    This brain-bending amalgam of natural science and archaeology is an excellent museum, despite a rather confusing layout. Set inside the former civil hospital, the exhibit highlights are undoubtedly the Guanche mummies and skulls, all of which are shrivelled masses of skin, hair and bone, with faces dried into contorted and grotesque expressions. In addition, there are informative displays on wildlife, flora and geology; the audiovisual presentation about the eruption of El Teide on the ground floor is particularly powerful and mesmerising.

  • Church

    Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Concepción

    It's difficult to miss the striking bell tower of the city’s oldest church, which also has traditional Mudéjar (Islamic-style architecture) ceilings. The present church was built in the 17th and 18th centuries, but the original building went up in 1498, just after Tenerife was conquered. At the heart of the shimmering silver altar is the 1494 Santa Cruz de la Conquista (Holy Cross of the Conquest), which gives the city its name.

  • Gardens

    Palmetum

    Conscientiously established on a former landfill area, this excellent 12-hectare botanical garden has the most diverse collection of palm trees in Europe, with specimens imported from all over the world. A detailed map leaflet helps in identifying the trees, as does signage. It's a peaceful place for a wander, with strategically placed benches for contemplating the seamless sea views.

  • Museum

    Museo de Bellas Artes

    Founded in 1900 and formerly part of the adjacent church (note the fabulous stained glass), this excellent museum has an eclectic collection of paintings by mainly Spanish, Canarian and Flemish artists, including Ribera, Sorolla and Bruegel. There’s also sculpture, including a Rodin, and temporary exhibitions. The massive battle-scene canvases by Spanish painter Manuel Villegas Brieva are particularly sobering. Note that the galleries are accessed via several flights of stairs, and there's no elevator.

  • Square

    Plaza España

    The majority of Santa Cruz’ sights and museums are within easy walking distance of the revamped waterfront Plaza España, with its huge circular wading pool plus fountain that spouts four times a day (indicating high and low tides). The pool makes for excellent photographs in the early morning or late afternoon, with the architecture reflected in the water.