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Northwest Territories
On a planet containing seven billion people, it's difficult to imagine that there are still places as sparsely populated as the Northwest Territories (NWT). A vast swath of boreal forest and Arctic tundra five times the size of the UK, it has a population of a small provincial town. In the 19th century, gold prospectors passed it over as too remote; modern Canadians, if they head north at all, prefer to romanticize about iconic Nunavut or the grandiose Yukon. More people orbit the earth each year than visit lonely Aulavik, one of the territory's four national parks.
What they're missing is something unique: a potent combo of epic, remarkably beautiful, accessible terrain, singular aboriginal culture and a vibrant, cosmopolitan regional capital. With one of the world's greatest waterfalls and North America's deepest lake, it has enough brutal wilderness to keep a modern-day David Livingstone happy for a couple of lifetimes.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Northwest Territories.
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Nahanni National Park Reserve
A place of unparalleled natural beauty in the southwestern NWT near the Yukon border, this 30,000-sq-km, Unesco World Heritage national park is bisected by the epic South Nahanni River that twists and foams its way for some 500km through the jagged Mackenzie Mountains. It's accessible via fly-in day trips from Fort Simpson to see the Virginia Falls, and is the dream destination of canoeists; licensed outfitters run canoe and rafting trips from Fort Simpson, starting from $6640 for seven days. There is also some excellent hiking in the Nahanni River Valley, from the boardwalk leading to the waterfall lookout to the full-day hike to the peak of Sunblood Mountain, across the river from Virginia Falls campground. The Ragged Range around Glacier Lake offers days of hiking and challenging rock-climbing routes, including in the Cirque of the Unclimbables – a range of forbidding granite peaks. Book the rafting and canoeing trips months in advance. Canoes require some basic experience; white-water canoeing adventures are for experienced and fit travelers only. Rafts, steered by a guide, are relaxing and suitable for all. Most trips begin at Moose Ponds, Rabbitkettle Lake or Virginia Falls, because floatplanes can land in these spots. From Moose Ponds to Rabbitkettle is about 160km, much of it Class III white water. For the 118km from Rabbitkettle to the falls, the river meanders placidly through broad valleys. Once the falls are portaged, it's another 252km to Blackstone Territorial Park, first through steep-sided, turbulent canyons, and then along the broad Liard River. The lower-river trip requires seven to 10 days. From Rabbitkettle it's around 14 days, while from Moose Ponds it's 21. There are also two sets of hot springs in the park: Rabbitkettle Hot Springs, surrounded by the largest tufa mounds in the northern world, and the smaller, smellier, sulfur-rich Kraus Hot Springs; canoe and rafting trips tend to include stops at one or both. Park entry fees are payable at the Parks Canada office in Fort Simpson before departure.
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Prince of Wales Northern Heritage Centre
Acting as NWT's historical and cultural archive, this well-laid-out museum overlooks Frame Lake. Expertly assembled displays address natural history, European exploration, Northern aviation, diamond mining and, especially, Dene and Inuit history and culture, their symbiotic relationship with their environment and their dependance on game for shelter, clothing, transport and food. Temporary exhibits include exceptional soapstone and whalebone sculpture by Inuvialuit artist Abraham Anghik Ruben. There's a terrific cafe and a good play zone for younger kids.
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Great Slave Lake
Yellowknife sits on the shores of Great Slave Lake – the 10th largest lake in the world and the deepest in North America. It takes its name from the Slavey First Nations, who've lived on its shores for millennia, and it has played a crucial part in the fur trade by the Hudson Trading Company. These days, it's a water-sports hub, a favorite of canoeists and a take-off and landing strip for floatplanes.
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Pelican Rapids
Twelve kilometers south of Fort Smith, an old road leads east towards the river, with a footpath dipping down to a creek and ascending a bluff overlooking the tumultuous river. There are not that many pelicans here, but you can wander out onto the great slabs of pink granite rising from the water. The trip makes for a great bike ride.
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Rapids of the Drowned
Named after a fatal 19th-century boat accident, these turbulent rapids are the northernmost pelican nesting site in the world. Walk 10 minutes from the top of Portage St to observe the birds snatching fish out of the swirling waters. Keep your distance to avoid disturbing them.
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Legislative Assembly
In the impressive, igloo-shaped Legislative Assembly, you can learn about the territory's aboriginal-style government by joining their free hour-long tour (10:30am, 1:30pm and 3:30pm June to August). There's excellent Northern art throughout, you get to peek into the chamber where debates happen, and you learn the story of the Speaker's Mace, the symbol of authority engraved with the slogan 'One land, many voices.'
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Old Town
Many living people are older than Yellowknife but, despite the fact the Old Town only dates from the mid-1930s, its ramshackle streets wedged between Back and Yellowknife Bays have a tangible gold-rush-era atmosphere. Funky cabins and eye-catching mansions share views with floating homes and fish shacks. Beyond, picturesque Latham Island includes N'Dilo ('End of the Road'), Yellowknife's Dene village.
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Yellowknife Cultural Crossroads
On a huge boulder by the road there's a striking work of art: a soaring eagle, a whirl of colorful handprints and the skeletal outline of a tipi. In front there's a bronze replica sculpture of the one found inside the Legislative Assembly, and another stone sculpture. This work is a collaboration between Métis, Dene, Inuvialuit, French-Canadian and English-Canadian artists.
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Northern Life Museum
This museum has intriguing displays on local history, from the first Dene arrivals 10,000 years ago to the founding of the 19th-century fur-trapping post. Look out for the re-created fur-trapper home and store, plus the taxidermied body of Canus, a whooping-crane sire whose sexual efforts helped save his species from extinction. Shop sells local crafts.