Jonathan Gregson
Bahia
Brazil's African heritage defines the staggeringly beautiful Northeastern state of Bahia. Bahia’s centerpiece is Salvador, a sprawling colonial city with historic churches, cobblestone streets, lively festivals, powerful percussion reverberating off old stone walls and capoeiristas (practitioners of capoeira) moving against the backdrops of 16th-century buildings. Beyond the city limits, Bahia awaits with more than 550mi (900km) of coastline, World Heritage–listed sites, deserted beaches and paradisaical islands. In the south, idyllic coastal villages attract vacationers and divers, while inland, the spectacular Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina features waterfalls and quiet hiking paths waiting to be explored.
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Top attractions
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Bahia.
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Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina
Spanning over 1520 sq km and containing within it innumerable species of plants and animals, deafening waterfalls and vast, rugged plains, Parque Nacional da Chapada Diamantina is a natural wonder that has drawn hikers and naturalists since even before it was officially designated a national park in 1985. Within its boundaries are hundreds and hundreds of miles of hiking trails ranging from afternoon-length jaunts to multiday treks that have the power to astonish even the most seasoned outdoors person. There is little infrastructure in the park itself and nothing in the way of an official entrance (there's no fee to enter the borders of the park) or a central information center, so it's advisable to hire a guide, even for shorter hikes, as it can be quite easy to get lost if you aren't sure where you're going. They’re affordable (plan on around R$200–300 per day for groups of up to six people), and guides are incredibly knowledgeable about local flora and fauna, and they can find the best swimming holes – all priceless in a park with few signs or official trails. In addition some individual sites in the park may have an entry fee, which is typically covered with your guide fee should you use one. For multi-day treks, guides also arrange basic lodging and meals in local homes for the bargain price of around R$100 per person, per day. Guides are plentiful in Lençois and can be arranged through your hotel or directly by keeping your eyes out for people in blue shirts. The Associação dos Condutores de Visitantes de Lençóis has listings of reputable guides and is good resource if you're booking one on your own.
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Igreja NS do Bonfim
This famous 18th-century church, located a few kilometers north of Comércio on the Itapagipe Peninsula, is the source of the fitas (colored ribbons) you see everywhere in Salvador, a souvenir of the church and a symbol of Bahia itself. Bonfim's fame derives from its power to effect miraculous cures, making it a popular shrine. In the Sala dos Milagres (Room of Miracles) on the right side of the church, devotees leave photos, letters and ex votos – wax replicas of body parts representing those that were cured or need curing. Due to Candomblistas' syncretization of Jesus Christ (Nosso Senhor do Bonfim) with Oxalá, their highest deity, Bonfim is their most important church. Huge services are held here on Friday, Oxalá's favorite day of the week. If you tie a fita around your wrist, you are making a commitment that lasts for months. With each of the three knots a wish is made, which will come true by the time the fita falls off. Cutting it off is inviting doom. Check their website for a full schedule of various services and events held daily.
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Pelourinho
The centerpiece of the Cidade Alta is the Pelourinho, a Unesco-declared World Heritage site of colorful colonial buildings and magnificent churches. As you wander the cobblestone streets, gazing up at the city’s oldest architecture, you’ll realize that the Pelô is not just for tourists. Cultural centers and schools of music, dance and capoeira pack these pastel-colored 17th- and 18th-century buildings. The area has undergone major restoration work – which remains ongoing – since 1993 thanks to Unesco funding. Admittedly, the Pelô has lost a lot of its character in the process, but to say that it is now safer and better preserved is an understatement.
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Museu Náutico da Bahia
This excellent nautical museum in Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra contains relics and displays from the days of Portuguese seafaring, plus exhibits on the slave trade. It also offers superb views on the surrounds. All information is offered in both Portuguese and English – a rarity in Bahia. If you only have time for one museum in Salvador, this is the one.
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Largo do Pelourinho
Picture-perfect Largo do Pelourinho is a sloping, triangle-shaped square, once the site of the pelourinho (whipping post) – one of several nearby locations where slaves were exposed and punished. After slavery was outlawed in 1835, the neighborhood fell into disrepair; in the 1990s major restoration efforts were initiated to preserve the cobblestone square's colonial houses and churches. Today, the square is the heart of Salvador's historic center.
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Museu Afro-Brasileiro
Holding one of Bahia’s most important collections, the Museu Afro-Brasileiro exhibits wood carvings, baskets, pottery and other artwork and crafts linking Brazilian and African artistic traditions. The highlight of the museum is a room lined with 27 huge, breathtaking carved wooden panels depicting orishas (spirits common in Afro-Brazilian spirituality) by Argentine-born Carybé, who is perhaps Salvador’s most renowned 20th-century fine artist. The exhibits are all exclusively in Portuguese, but there are translation books available at the front desk. Admission includes entry to the Museu de Arqueologia e Etnologia.
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Forte de Santo Antônio da Barra
Built in 1698, Bahia’s oldest fort is more commonly called the Farol da Barra for the lighthouse (South America’s oldest) within its walls. In addition to having superb views, the fort houses an excellent nautical museum, with relics and displays from the days of Portuguese seafaring, plus exhibits on the slave trade. As you join the locals gathering to catch the sunset from the grassy ledge behind the fort, notice how Salvador’s peninsula is the only location in Brazil where the sun appears to set over the ocean.
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Mercado Modelo
The original 1861 Customs House, where slaves were housed when they arrived in Salvador, was partly destroyed in a fire in 1986. After reconstruction, it was transformed into the Mercado Modelo. The market is a great spot to pick up tourist trinkets, and a couple of cafes out back provide seating with great views of the bay. Perhaps owing to the building's grisly history, night guards report ghostly activities after closing hours.
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Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado
Literary types shouldn't miss a quick visit to the Fundação Casa de Jorge Amado, offering an overview of the life of one of Brazil’s best-known writers. A wall of Amado’s book covers in every major language demonstrates his widespread popularity, while the museum cafe is a good place to grab a coffee and pastry. Most of the exhibits are in Portuguese, but you will find a few English and French translations here and there.
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