What to eat and drink in Dubai

With its majestic minarets, vibrant souks and heady experiences, Old Dubai harks back to a bygone era, in a striking contrast to the modern city's shimmering skyscrapers and contemporary attractions. In the 1950's, when Dubai's population numbered just 20,000, this was the center of the city. It includes the working-class neighborhoods of Bur Dubai, Deira and Shindagha, sprawling around Dubai creek — the beating heart of Dubai.

Left, a vendor at a souk sells rugs; right, close up of spices for sale at a souk — Left: The Grand Souk Market. Right: Spices for sale at the Old Souk Market.

An ancient pearl-diving site with a history spanning thousands of years, this natural creek formed Dubai’s first port. Before oil was discovered in the 1960s, ships arrived here from East Africa, Iran and India to trade gold, textiles and spices in Old Dubai’s souks. The culinary influence of these imports, along with the food of the city’s first immigrants (from Iran and the Indian subcontinent), significantly impacted Emirati cuisine and the city’s overall food culture. A walking foodie tour of Old Dubai reveals the rich tapestry of flavors shaping the diverse cuisine scene that defines the city today.

A woman looks at artifacts inside a museum — Bayt Al Khanyar Museum & Coffee Shop in Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood.

Left, a waiter clears a table in an outdoor dining setting; right, floor pillows arranged in an outdoor seating area with fabric hanging around them — Left: Outdoor seating at the Arabian Tea House & Café. Right: A cozy set up at the Arabian Tea House & Café.

Begin in the Al Fahidi Historic District along Dubai Creek, where restored 19th-century houses have been transformed into restaurants, museums and boutique hotels. At Arabian Tea House, family recipes inspire hearty Emirati dishes like balaleet (omelet-topped vermicelli), machboos (spiced rice with meat or fish) and saloona (vegetable and meat stew). Nearby, the Bayt Al Khanyar Museum showcases rare Emirati daggers and historical photographs.

Left, a man prepares coffee while sitting on the floor; floor seating with colorful pillows arranged inside a building — Left: The Sheikh Mohammed Center for Cultural Understanding, located in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighborhood. Right: Interior of the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding.

Nearby, the Sheikh Mohammed Centre for Cultural Understanding offers guided tours, authentic Emirati meals, and insights into traditions like Arabic calligraphy and gahwa (Arabic coffee). To dive deeper into Dubai’s culinary subcultures go on a curated food walk with local expert Frying Pan Adventures.

People outside of a kebab restaurant — Al Ustad Special Kebab Restaurant.

Left, a close up of a hand holding a shawarma sandwich; right, a kitchen with shawarma and other sandwich ingredients. — Left: A shawarma sandwich from Shiraz Nights in Bur Dubai. Right: Shawarma in the kitchen of Shiraz Nights.

Walk to Bur Dubai Souq to browse pashmina shawls, colorful pottery and rugs. From Bur Dubai Abra Station, take an abra (water taxi) across Dubai Creek to Deira Old Souq Abra Station. Grab an Iranian faloodeh (frozen vermicelli dessert) at Jafer Biman Ali Cafeteria, a classic example of Dubai’s beloved cafeterias. Continue through the Spice Souq, where spices and frankincense fill the air, and the glittering Gold Souq. Head to Shiraz Nights for a shawarma sandwich – the city’s favorite street food. Return to Al Fahidi and finish your culinary journey at Al Ustad Special Kebab, a no-frills family-run institution serving juicy kebabs and butter-drenched rice since 1978.

People look out onto the water as a boat crosses with a cityscape in the background — A traditional Abra boat in Dubai Creek.

Standout moment

Watch the yellow-beaked seagulls spread their slender wings over abras crossing Dubai Creek. Passengers put away their phones to appreciate the views of colorful wooden dhows (traditional Arabian cargo ships), minarets, heritage architecture, bustling souks and the city’s first skyscrapers. At this seawater inlet between Bur Dubai and Deira, time seems to stand still in a city that changes frequently.

All photographs taken by Natalie Naccache for Lonely Planet.