These are the best places to travel this summer

Ericeira, on Portugal's Atlantic coast, has been shaped over centuries by the rhythms of the sea. In 2011 it was designated a World Surfing Reserve, the first of its kind in Europe (and the second in the world, after Malibu, California). In the years following, a steady stream of newcomers has transformed the once-sleepy fishing village into a busy surf town. Today, it's a magnet for surfers, remote workers and city escapees looking for salt air and freshly baked sourdough bread. But don’t let the flat whites fool you, under all the glossy charm, Ericeira remains stubbornly, beautifully local.

Just under an hour’s drive from Lisbon, it’s the perfect beachside addition to any visit to the capital.

Left: People relaxing under colorful umbrellas on a sandy beach. Right: Two women chat on a wooden bench overlooking the ocean.
Left: Praia dos Pescadores. Right: Street scenes in Ericeira. Kerry Murray for Lonely Planet
The exterior of a small taverna. The outside has a table, chairs and flower pots with a giant wall mural of a fishing boat and a smaller mural of a fisherman with a pipe in his mouth.
A Taberna at Ericeira Market. Kerry Murray for Lonely Planet

When to arrive: Aim for Thursday evening for cheaper flights, quieter check-in and the promise of a full weekend ahead.

How to get from the airport: Ericeira is about a 35-minute drive from Lisbon Airport. Public transport is an option, though a bit of a headache, requiring a metro ride to Campo Grande in Lisbon, followed by a direct bus, which takes around 75 minutes and costs about €6 (US$7). Slower, multi-stop buses can take up to 90 minutes.

For maximum flexibility, I recommend renting a car for the weekend so you can explore Ericeira’s stunning beaches and nearby villages at your own pace. If that’s outside your budget, an Uber from the airport typically costs €30–40 (US$35–47).

Getting around town: The village of Ericeira is small, compact and fully walkable. For trips to the surf reserve or nearby villages, Ubers run to about €5–8 (US$5.90–9.40) per ride. A rental car typically costs €30–50 (US$35–59) per day, giving you maximum freedom. There are also regular buses from the terminal. 

Where to stay: There are plenty of boutique guesthouses in the historic center (€140–180/US$165–212) within steps of cafes. Just two minutes from Ericeira’s central beach, Casa dos Cucos offers rooms with sea views and parquet floors. If you're on a budget, there are eco-hostels near Foz do Lizandro where a dorm bed costs around €20–40/night (US$23.60–47). I like Selina Boa Vista Ericeira, it's super central with a beach-house feel. There’s a rooftop patio, restaurant, outdoor pool and bar on site.

What to pack: Summer days typically reach 18–24°C (64–75°F), while off-season weather can be much colder and wetter. Even in summer, pack a windbreaker or rain jacket to guard against the Atlantic’s fickle weather, plus sturdy sneakers, swimwear or surf gear, a refillable water bottle and sunscreen.

Left: Window surrounded by blue and white Portuguese tiles. Right: People walking on a quiet cobbled street, lined with whitewashed houses with tiled terracotta roofs.
Left: Window surrounded by blue and white Portuguese tiles. Right: People walking on a street in Ericeira. Kerry Murray for Lonely Planet
A busy beach on a summer's day with mist rolling in from the ocean.
Praia dos Pescadores. Kerry Murray for Lonely Planet

Friday

Morning

Start the day with a stroll around Praça da República, the village square known locally as Jogo do Bola (Ball Game Square). Get a pastel de nata or two at O Pãozinho das Marias, past winners of the O Melhor Pastel de Nata (the Best Pastel de Nata) competition for the Lisbon region. Then make the short walk to Balagan at nearby Praia Do Sul for coffee, a bowl of shakshuka and a beautiful sea view.

How to spend the day

After breakfast, head to the Ericeira World Surfing Reserve Interpretive Center in the heart of town. Interactive touchscreens map the area’s “Seven Magnificent Waves,” and explain why Ericeira became Europe’s first designated World Surfing Reserve.

For lunch, head to Clube Naval, where you can watch the fishing boats off Praia dos Pescadores while eating fish that came straight from their nets. Start with the amêijoas, meaty local clams, then settle in for whatever the catch of the day brings.

If it’s sunny, sleep off the food coma at Praia dos Pescadores. Fringed by fishing boats and sheltered by the harbor walls, it’s the town’s best spot for a swim. If the weather takes a turn, the boutiques and surf shops along Rua da Praia are just around the corner.

Dinner

Catch the sunset over dinner at the family-run Tasquinha do Joy. On the menu there’s the likes of mussels, clams, fresh fish, all caught by the local fishers. Expect simple seafood done well. Next, pay a visit to Bar Neptuno. The owner is generous with her measures and has a great '80s playlist, just make sure you’re carrying cash. For more action, head to Adega Bar, a melting pot of tourists, foreign workers and locals.

Two surfers carry their boards out to sea during sunset
Praia da Ribeira d'Ilhas. Kerry Murray for Lonely Planet
Left: A busy beach cove with cliffs nearby. Right: Surfer walking out of the ocean leaving footprints on the sandy beach.
Clifftop view of Praia da Ribeira d'Ilhas. Right: Surfer walking out of the ocean at Praia da Ribeira d'Ilhas. Kerry Murray for Lonely Planet

Saturday

Morning

The best way to see the famous surf breaks is on the cliff-top path between Ericeira and the town of São Lourenço. So grab an espresso for €1 from your nearest cafe, lace up your shoes and hit the trail.

How to spend the day

Ericeira to São Lourenço is roughly 7km (4 miles) and takes about 1½ hours on foot. Pick up the path north of the village that runs past Matadouro and on through Ribeira d’Ilhas. Most visitors will be able to tackle this trail, which winds along beaches and cliff tops with plenty of viewpoints, but with almost no shade, be sure to carry at least a liter of water and wear sunscreen.

At São Lourenço, collapse on the golden sand and grab a cold cerveja at the beach cafe run by Paulo. For lunch, head up to Jardim – Ku’uipo’s Hawaiian-style fresh poke bowls are the perfect way to recharge.

If you’ve still got energy after your hike, book a surf lesson with one of the area’s many schools. Ericeira Waves in Ribamar runs daily group classes (€45/US$52) and private sessions (€120/US$140/hour). Local coaches Bruno and Miguel know the area intimately. They’ll set your meeting point and shuttle you to the wave that best matches your level, making beginners feel at ease and giving experienced surfers more of a challenge.

Dinner

Ribamar sits in the heart of the reserve and is famous for its seafood restaurants. I like O’Pescador, especially the seafood rice, which comes loaded with shrimp and crab legs. For a nightcap afterward, head to Barzinho, which often has live music (you can find anything from rock to jazz and salsa) with a nice mix of locals and visitors. 

Left: People relaxing on a beach on a sunny day. Right: People sit outside a small whitewashed restaurant.
Left: People relaxing on Praia dos Pescadores. Right: La Popular, a restaurant in Ericeira.
A small cove, surrounded by cliffs, is busy with tourists on a sunny day.
Praia São Julião. Kerry Murray for Lonely Planet

Sunday

Morning

Wake early for a quick café pingado and bolo at MOTHER, a little cafe in the village center, then head 6km (3.7 miles) south to the village of Carvoeira. Along the olive-tree–lined road you’ll find Celeste Alecrim’s food truck, where locals line up for pão com chouriço (smoky chorizo-filled bun, €1.90/US$2.22). One bite and you’ll understand why it’s a regional institution.

How to spend the day

From here, choose your adventure: explore two beautiful local beaches – Foz do Lizandro and São Julião – or drive south for another 50 minutes to Sintra. Designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1995, Sintra is loved for its blend of lush woodlands and palaces. Foz do Lizandro offers a broad, sheltered bay with soft sand and natural tide pools, ideal for families with small kids. São Julião is a long, wide beach framed by dramatic cliffs and rocky outcrops. There are regular direct buses that run from Ericeira to Foz do Lizandro (roughly 20 mins) and Praia de São Julião (roughly 35 mins). Tickets cost €1–3 (US$1.17–3.50). Check Moovit for up-to-date details on each of these services.

Dinner

Roll back into Ericeira and book a table at La Popular, a gem tucked inside a Portuguese cottage just a short stroll from the center. It's intimate and unpretentious, with warm lighting, exposed beams and a small kitchen. Most importantly, the food is good. The menu leans towards Mediterranean-Spanish tapas with a Portuguese twist. Don’t miss the croquettes – these creamy ham fritters melt in your mouth. It's a cash-only restaurant, but there's an ATM nearby. With limited seating, reservations are a must here.