The ultimate fall weekend in Taos, New Mexico

New Mexico’s high desert area of Taos was one of the first places I visited in the state, and I can still remember thinking how markedly different it was from other US towns – it felt ancient in comparison. While the town itself was founded by Spanish colonists 400 years ago, the nearby Taos Pueblo has been continuously inhabited for roughly 1,000 years.

Central Taos, meanwhile, is utterly captivating. Sitting 7000ft above sea level, just 50 miles south of the Colorado border, it’s a blend of Native American culture, Spanish colonial history and Southwestern style. The pedestrianized downtown and central picturesque plaza are made up of historic adobe houses, plus a scattering of superb museums and galleries – all sitting in the shadow of the dramatic surrounding Sangre de Cristo mountains, a subrange of the Rocky Mountains.

Eccentric locals, bohemians, hippies and Hispanic families reside in Taos’ multi-story, earth-packed pueblo-style buildings, which double as art studios and atmospheric guesthouses. Meanwhile, the beauty of the greater Taos area is a beacon for outdoor fans, who roam emerald forest trails under piercing-blue skies and scale snowcapped peaks rising more than 12,000ft (including the highest point in the state). There’s also rock climbing, horseback riding, fly-fishing and rafting trips on the nearby rushing Rio Grande. 

Temperatures are pleasantly mild in fall, and there are fewer crowds than during summer festivals or winter ski season.

• When to arrive: Touch down by Friday morning in Albuquerque (about 2.5 hours away) and rent a car to arrive in Taos by early afternoon. Plan to drive to Santa Fe at the end of your trip and fly home from there.

• How to get from the airport: The nearest major airport is in Albuquerque. Renting a car is the most convenient option, since the drive along the Rio Grande Gorge is part of the experience. Taos also has a small regional airport and Taos Air offers complimentary ground shuttles to the downtown areas and the ski resort. 

• Getting around town: Downtown is an easily walkable area, with sidewalks. North Central Regional Transit District buses run along the main drag. Rideshare like Uber is available, though drivers are limited. A car makes it easy to explore beyond the Plaza and get to hiking trails.

• Where to stay: El Pueblo Lodge is a midrange 1920s motor lodge that's been renovated and expanded over the years and has a pool. For oodles of Southwest charm, try the historic Taos Inn, an Adobe-style inn in the center of town with wooden furnishings and adobe fireplaces. Doña Luz Inn is a joyful B&B with eight rooms decorated with Southwestern art. Or for a more quirky stay that's perfect for stargazing, check out Hotel Luna Mystica's collection of vintage trailers turned into a hip glamping experience a few miles west of central Taos.

• What to pack: Layers are key. Mornings and evenings are chilly in the desert, even becoming coat weather, but you might be in shorts by the afternoon. Walking shoes and a light jacket are a must for trails. 

Day 1

Early afternoon

After flying into Albuquerque and making your way toward Taos, check into the Taos Inn on the Plaza, with its Pueblo-style architecture and hand-carved wooden beams. Then wander the surrounding square of atmospheric adobe buildings dating to 1796, including the old courthouse and Taos jail on the Plaza’s north side. Peruse the many gift shops selling Southwestern trinkets. For great coffee, try nearby Manzanita Market, serving organic food from biodynamic farmers and ranchers. For bit of spice, head a little north of the Plaza, on Paseo Del Pueblo Norte, to Michael’s Kitchen, a restaurant open till 2pm that serves heaped plates of burritos with chile, or grab something from Michael’s old-school bakery counters, stuffed with apple fritters, bear claws and chile cheese bread. Don’t leave the Plaza area without a taste of fair-trade, organic chocolate at the Chokola tasting room.

How to spend the day

Spend the rest of your afternoon exploring Taos’ artistic side. Peruse works by the Taos Society of Artists painters at Robert L Parsons Fine Art Gallery on Bent St or the Parsons Gallery of the West on Kit Carson Rd inside a beautiful hacienda built in 1803. Wilder Nightingale Fine Art nearby is the place for contemporary Taos art, exhibited in a cavernous gallery. Dusty El Rincón Trading Post, meanwhile, first opened in 1909 and has all the atmosphere of a century-old joint – it’s the place to go for indigenous art and jewelry. If you have time, step inside the Harwood Museum of Art, housed in a mid-19th-century adobe compound, with a dozen galleries telling the story of New Mexico art. If traveling in late September or early October, look out for creative events held as part of the Taos Fall Arts Festival, celebrating the creativity of the area since 1973.

Detour: If you're a fan of architecture and sustainable living, travel 14 miles west of the Plaza to visit the Taos Earthships, a 600-acre planned community of off-the-grid, self-sufficient homes. Start at the visitors center for a tour ($9 self-guided; $22 guided). The site is open to visitors from 10am–4pm.

Dinner

For a laid-back but flavorful dinner in a romantic candlelit 19th-century chapel, The Love Apple serves seasonal fare, such as buttermilk blue corn bread and poached trout pate or enchiladas smothered in red chile. Book a table in advance and bring cash; credit and debit cards are not accepted.

After dark

For a live music fix, head to the Taos Inn Adobe Bar, which offers salty margaritas and a live rotating lineup of folk-fusion to Southwestern sounds every night.

Day 2

Morning

Drive the mountain roads as aspens burst into golden fall color to the town of Arroyo Seco (just north of Taos) with its ski-bum vibe and many outdoor shops. Fuel up with a healthy brunch at Sol Food Cafe, which uses all-natural and local ingredients. It serves superfood smoothies and organic juices, as well as breakfast options like citrus olive oil pancakes or huevos rancheros with organic gluten free tortillas.

How to spend the day

Burn off breakfast outdoors by hiking the epic Williams Lake via Wheeler’s Peak Trail, a challenging 8.2-mile trail that ascends from the Taos Ski resort to the highest point in the state (13,161ft) through glorious natural alpine scenery and to jaw-dropping views of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains and surrounding wilderness. Plan 5–6 hours for this one and its estimated 2900ft of elevation gain. Many choose to stop instead at the glistening Williams Lake (an easy-to-moderate 3.7-mile out-and-back hike, taking 2–3 hours). Non-hikers can ride the chairlift at Taos Ski Valley for panoramic views of golden peaks.

Late lunch

Post-hike, grab a hearty plate of currywurst or trout salad at The Bavarian at the end of the hike. Chase it with a German beer on the large deck overlooking the ski lift. 

After dark

Come dusk, make your way south to the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge with Heritage Inspirations for a stargazing experience. Here, an expert astronomer will guide you through the star clusters, planets and distant galaxies visible in the clear skies above. Book ahead. Alternatively, swing by Taos Mesa Brewing’s tap room for craft brews and wood-fired wings and pizzas.

Day 3

Morning

Grab a quick breakfast at Farmhouse Cafe, where the menu celebrates local organic produce (think pumpkin pancakes, farm eggs and apple cider). Then head 3 miles north of town to the UNESCO World Heritage Site and US National Historic Landmark of Taos Pueblo, the oldest living settlement in this area. Elements of life have remained the same for 1,000 years (there's no running water or electricity here), offering an unusual glimpse into the past. You'll see traditional adobe dwellings and take a guided tour to learn about pueblo life and history, including the 1680 Pueblo Revolt, which tossed out the Spanish. Time your visit with San Geronimo Feast Day (on September 30 each year), honoring St Jerome – the patron saint of the Pueblo – for festival celebrations, including a traditional footrace with men painted in black and white, followed by a pole-climbing competition to pull down the harvest bounty. Unique indigenous art and jewelry are also for sale all day.  

Snack

Grab a quick bite at pueblo-style La Cueva, serving New Mexican classics from white fish ceviche and huevos rancheros to stuffed burritos, just south of the Plaza.

How to spend the day

Heading out of town on the High Road to Taos is a truly mesmerizing, scenic, winding mountain route through small villages. Travel 52 miles to Truchas, an atmospheric 18th-century Spanish town with century-old adobe buildings and a couple of galleries. Continue another 7 miles on the High Road to pick up Southwestern rugs, shawls, toys, jackets, vests and bags at Centinela Traditional Arts. Nearby, the Hispanic village of Chimayó, founded in 1598, holds major significance for Catholics. The religious site El Santuario de Chimayó was built in 1816 on top of a spot of holy dirt with supposed curative powers. Visitors can collect a bag of the stuff, which is meant to inspire good health. In September, artists on the High Road to Taos open their gallery doors as part of the free High Road Art Tour. Gallery maps are available on the event website.

Continue on to fly out of Santa Fe and vow to return to Taos in winter for superb skiing on bone-dry slopes or in summer for a balloon ride over the Rio Grande Gorge.