7 of the Best Things to Do in Granada, Nicaragua

Granada, the former capital of Nicaragua, is a stupendous, beautifully preserved gallery of architecture from the Spanish colonial era – and its colorful buildings and ornate entryways all but beg to be photographed from every angle. Its famous cathedral rises from its center, all bright yellow walls and red domes. On the horizon looms Volcán Mombacho, one of the most picturesque of Nicaragua’s many volcanoes, while the city’s waterfront abuts lovely Lago Cocibolca.

Wandering the lively streets of this beloved city, one of the oldest former European colonies in the Americas, is a highlight of any trip to Nicaragua. History buffs will find a rich Catholic heritage and endless folklore to absorb, including the city’s tragic immolation at the hands of invading Filibusteros in 1856. But Granada isn’t all about the past: it remains a very real city, with 134,000 current residents and a proud civic culture.

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Here are the best things to do in Granada, Nicaragua.

1. People-Watch in the Parque Central

Visitors will instantly recognize the Granada skyline from its canary-yellow church, the Catedral de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (Our Lady of Assumption Cathedral). Few sights in Nicaragua are better known than the cathedral’s red-roofed domes and white trim, and tourists instantly gravitate toward this central landmark. For such a grand structure, the cathedral’s vaulted interior is fairly understated, with a few biblical frescoes and a copy of Michelangelo’s Creation of Adam on the ceiling. It’s free to enter, and regular services are held on Sundays and religious holidays.

The real action takes place just outside, in the Parque Central. This vivacious square is nicely paved, shaded with trees and well trafficked by locals. It’s surrounded on all sides by the vintage facades of high-end hotels, while numerous street vendors fry tortillas and sell fresh fruit and refreshments.

Planning tip: When night falls – and temperatures become more bearable – festive crowds converge on the Parque Central for outdoor dining and live music. The park is romantically lit every night of the year, and major festivals culminate in family-friendly concerts and fireworks just outside the cathedral. One of the biggest events is La Purísima, a 9-day festival at the start of December that celebrates the Virgin Mary with food and music.

2. Lay Eyes on a Beautifully Ruined Hospital

One of the most haunting images in Granada is the Antiguo Hospital San Juan de Dios (Old Saint John Hospital) on the west side of town, near the bus station. This enormous structure stands empty and unmarked – a jarring site in the city as well preserved as Granada. The weather-beaten walls and collapsed ceilings of the complex (which could easily pass for a palace or monastery) suggest some terrible event, and Nicaragua is no stranger to earthquakes and fires. Yet the old hospital is actually just a victim of neglect: built in 1905, the building proved too expensive to maintain over the years, causing its abandonment. Today, support beams hold up the old tower, and the rooms are thick with wild plants and peppered with debris. Definitely watch your step as you explore.

Planning tip: While the hospital is a favorite subject for photographers and ghost-hunters, with locals frequently using it as a landmark when giving directions, the site doesn’t host any formal visits or tours.

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3. Dine and Drink at an Atmospheric Food Hall

You can’t walk past the grand entrance of El Portal food hall without a gaggle of hosts presenting menus. Ignore them and keep walking, for this place is worth scoping out. The voluminous, open-roof complex has several popular bars and restaurants inside, such as the pan-Latin diner Los Bocaditos, sports pub Beer House and pizzeria Hot Pizza Ariel. You’ll find most patrons dining at an assortment of tables on the first floor, while thirsty guests climb attractive wooden staircases to the bars on the second story.

El Portal is a block west of the Parque Central, on the busy corner of Calle El Comercio and Calle Real Xalteva. The upper reaches are festooned with lights and leafy branches, and the echoing interior gets boisterous and rather boozy after dark. While the old building could pass for a repurposed train station or government office, El Portal is just a modernized tiangue – a small market full of stalls.

Planning tip: This place is family-friendly, but be aware that cigarette smoking is tolerated.

4. Sample Locally Made Chocolate

Cacao trees grow best in the tropics, yet Nicaragua wasn’t known for its chocolate until the 1990s. The industry has grown exponentially since then, largely in response to tourism. Today, Granada is home to two dueling chocolate museums, both of which provide a thoughtful and delicious experience.

The pioneer, ChocoMuseo (one of four located across Latin America) is a museum, retail store and kitchen located in a handsome old building around the corner from the Parque Central. Here, you can browse a panoply of chocolate products, all grown and processed in Nicaragua, and explore the displays for free. Feeling hands-on? Book online to grind your own beans and create confections at the 2-hour Bean to Bar workshop.

The more recent addition is Argencove, an artisanal chocolatier founded by three Australian families. Here visitors can purchase beautifully packaged chocolate bars with locally inspired names (Apoyo, Cocibolca) or take a 2-hour guided tour (US$5) of the facility.

5. Join the Fray on Calle El Comercio

True to its name, Calle El Comercio (Market St) is a lively outdoor marketplace jammed with stalls and vendors. The street starts about a block away from the Parque Central, and descends a gradual hill for about five blocks, ending at a small bridge. This crowded corridor is where most residents shop for produce and specialty items – and the one-way street is a frenetic traffic jam of customers and taxis, with visitors easily able to lose themselves in the maze of alleys.

Since the wares for sale constitute an eclectic mix of clothes, snacks and fresh produce, the stalls are better for browsing than seeking a specific item. This district is a great place to practice Spanish and interact with local farmers, but it’s not for the claustrophobic – or tourists in a hurry. Most operations are open every day but Sunday.

Planning tip: If you’re renting a car, downtown Granada can be a nightmare to park in: few old buildings are equipped with garages or car ports. Instead, stay in more motor-friendly lodging in the southern or western suburbs. Two car-friendly options are the Hotel Palacio Real Granada and Hotel Casa Barcelona.

6. Watch Cigar Making at Doña Elba

Tobacco is one of Nicaragua’s bigger crops, and has been used in the manufacture of cigars since the late 1950s, largely in response to the Cuban Revolution. The Granada location of Doña Elba Cigars (which is based in the highland town of Estelí, hundreds of miles away) is a kind of living museum, where workers expertly roll, seal and chop the rich brown leaves by hand in a celebration of the craft and labor that go into every cigar.

Planning tip: The factory is open daily, and walk-ins are welcome. Visitors can see the simple machinery and assembly process, then purchase boxes from the gift shop.

7. Visit the Beautiful Convento y Museo San Francisco

There is no greater testament to Granada’s perseverance than the Convento y Museo San Francisco (San Francisco Convent and Museum). The original convent and church date all the way back to 1525, but were completely destroyed on several occasions, first by waves of 17th-century pirates and then when William Walker invaded in 1856. After each catastrophe, the local congregation rebuilt these sacred landmarks, which alternately served as a convent and a university.

Today, the convent is a bright white structure that houses an impressive museum inside. The many rooms exhibit historic furnishings, spiritual relics and a sizable library, with dioramas and oil paintings illustrating everyday life in the colonial capital and its surrounding farmlands. Tile roofs slope toward a central court thick with palm trees, and a special pavilion displays millennium-old Indigenous carvings. These basaltic, animal-like sculptures were discovered on Isla Zapatera, a lake island about 30km south of Granada, and hint at the rich spiritual traditions of the land in the centuries before the arrival of Columbus. The biggest crowd-pleaser is the scale model of Granada that recreates every street, building and tree in town. Retrace your steps from behind the glass shield and pinpoint new parts of the city to explore.

Planning tip: The museum is open 8am to 5pm weekdays and 9am to 4pm weekends.