How to travel Scotland's North Coast 500 responsibly

Up ahead is an empty silver sand beach, a sharp boundary between the mystical mountains and moshing North Atlantic Ocean. The outline of peaceful coves, caves and surf breaks beside the open road casts its spell. With no one else around, you set up camp in the dying light as the sun drops like a coin into a slot below the horizon.

This is a snapshot of Scotland’s most famous road trip, the North Coast 500 (or NC500). It’s a feel-good, euphoric drive that leaves you feeling in love with the North Highlands’ kaleidoscope of landscapes, colors and experiences. But the truth is the scenery isn’t always so calm, and the roads are not always so hushed and untroubled. 

I’ve explored the NC500 a number of times in the past four decades, most recently last winter while researching Lonely Planet’s new Journey North Coast 500 guidebook. And I know firsthand how controversial and newsworthy (for the wrong reasons) the circuit has become, but also how best to safeguard its future and support the communities you’re traveling through. You can find a way to take the photograph, but leave nothing behind.

Here’s what you need to know about traveling the NC500 in the most sustainable way possible.

What is the North Coast 500 and why is it worth it?

Buckle up for the road trip of a lifetime. A 516-mile loop from Inverness along northern Scotland’s remotest roads and stretches of coast-hugging single track, the NC500 is a landscape punctuated by castles and distilleries, grain fields and the desolate wildness of UNESCO-worthy The Flow Country. Along the way, the route takes in the coastal towns of Wick, Thurso, Durness and Ullapool, and beautiful shores in shades of blue-green that would make the Caribbean’s best blush.

The North Highland Initiative launched this road trip in March 2015 as part of its work with the tourism sector. This was followed by a viral marketing campaign, traveler word of mouth and relentless media coverage (reportedly reaching more than 11.2 billion people worldwide). It is now a keystone of Scotland’s tourism industry and one of the world’s most in-demand touring routes. Think Route 66, but with crofts (rented farms) instead of motels, and whisky instead of bourbon.

The flip side of this success is the ongoing impact of overtourism issues, including bumper-to-bumper crowds, skyrocketing prices, demands on resources and environmental degradation. This appeals least of all to locals, who bear the brunt of the tailbacks and trash. The less said about toilet waste, the better.

When is the best time of year to go? 

This is the crux of the NC500’s problems. The vast majority of road-trippers arrive in camper vans in summer, with roadsides seeing an increase in irresponsible wild camping, traffic congestion and accidents, as well as significant downsides in the amount of waste discarded by the roadside. This also coincides with Grand Prix season: when motorbikes and enthusiasts speed on rural roads in fast supercars, turning the region into a racetrack. 

The problem is so severe at times, particularly in the height of July and August — which coincides with summer holidays across the UK and Europe — that there is discussion about some of the more popular sections of the NC500 asking to be withdrawn from the official route to discourage visitors.

At no time is the shift from busy to bucolic more palpable than outside of the peak season from May to October. Travel in a month like February or November, and this vast landscape still has all the benefits of the Highlands — the energizing beaches, heather-frilled moorland, mesmerizing mountains and lochs — but with less traffic and stress. If it were up to me, I’d devote my time to a winter trip, when the light is at its purest and the locals are more receptive to road-trippers.

How long does the NC500 take?

Whether by car, camper van or motorbike, people move too fast along the coast. Many commit to about 4-5 days, bypassing many highlights, not realizing there’s even more to revel in just off the main coastal circuit. It might look simple on a map, but don’t be fooled. Every detour delivers a reward, and with so many sublime landscapes to savor, the local communities would far prefer to welcome those that travel in a measured manner. 

Thankfully, the rise of the slow travel movement as well as community outcry is encouraging visitors to commit more, not less, time to the route. Consider seven days as a minimum and 10 days the perfect time to do the entire route justice. 

What can I do to minimize my impact?

To help combat the effects of overtourism, NC500 communities now ask every traveler to sign a pledge aimed at promoting responsible behavior. The idea is that by embarking on your journey, you’re not simply on the road to a memorable adventure. Rather, you’re buying into a commitment to protect the region — to dispose of waste responsibly, to park only in dedicated areas, to shop locally. You can sign the pledge here.

Remember that while the idea of this road trip is only 10 years old, the communities on the coast have been there for thousands of years. This means the road — at many times, a well-worn slice of single track — is a lifeline and used by everyone from farmers to school children, post buses to ambulances. Often there is no pavement. Use the road considerately, pull in at passing places to let others by if touring in a slower camper van or motor home, and don’t park recklessly.

The NC500 has no shortage of attractions to stop off at along the coast — Dunrobin Castle, Duncansby Stacks, Smoo Cave, Knockan Crag National Nature Reserve, the list goes on — but don’t stick to the main route. There are highlights at every turn, so consider detours off the main coastal loop. Two highlights not to miss are RSPB Forsinard Flows Nature Reserve in the midst of The Flow Country and the salmon leaping up the Falls of Shin. 

The NC500 communities have long histories of working the land and sea, but the rise in visitors has led to many pivoting to tourism. You’ll not be the first to travel independently, but you’ll have more memorable encounters by taking tours from insightful guides rather than heading out by yourself. Paddle around lesser-seen Loch Brora with the Sutherland Adventure Company. For surfing in Thurso, join a lesson with North Coast Watersports. 

Likewise, support local communities whenever possible by shopping from farm stores, not supermarkets. North of the Black Isle, The Storehouse is all about homemade cheeses, jams and ice cream. 

Are there special rules for motor homes and camper vans?

With limited accommodation options and increasing prices compounding budget worries, it makes sense for many travelers to tackle the route in a motor home or camper van. 

While driving, do pull into passing places (lay-bys) to allow traffic to safely pass, especially if you are traveling below the speed limit. Likewise, don’t travel in a convoy, especially on small roads, and, crucially, always travel at least one passing place apart from the vehicle in front of you. Traffic jams are now deeply ingrained in summer, but everyone — figuratively and literally — needs more space to breathe.

Is camping allowed on the NC500?

Wild camping is permitted across Scotland, in accordance with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code, giving everyone the right to roam. That is, so long as you leave no trace behind. However, the law does not apply to vehicles such as camper vans or motor homes. This means it is only allowed when the campsite is reached by foot or bike. 

If coming by motor home, you must use designated overnighting sites along the NC500 route. Get to know the Scottish Outdoor Access Code to make sure you’re doing the right thing.

What makes the NC500 so spectacular is its stunning collection of natural, pristine environments. Keep them that way by disposing of waste wisely. If bins are full, don’t leave your trash behind. If there is no bin, take your rubbish with you. As the NC500 marketing board says: “Give your litter a lift, take it home!”

Lonely Planet's Journey: North Coast 500 is available now. Order here