Visitors to Scotland will usually land in either Glasgow or Edinburgh, or enter the country from England in the south and make a beeline for these cities or the Highlands. We have all heard about the Isle of Skye, the island distilleries and the majesty of Edinburgh castle. But just south of all these famous Scottish wonders you’ll find landscapes, castles, forests and experiences to rival anything further north.
And what’s more, you’ll be able to enjoy it all without the crowds and hordes that descend upon these northern regions, particularly in high season.
Explore Scotland along the Southern Upland Way
Scotland’s longest hiking route, the Southern Upland Way is a coast-to-coast trail covering forests, mountains, cliffs and lakes. The whole thing runs from Portpatrick in the southwest to Cocksburnpath in the east. At 344km (214 miles) long, it can be tackled as part of a major trip, or a short section attempted at a more leisurely pace. The first half of the route – through Dumfries and Galloway – is gorgeous with varied landscapes and trail-types, and lots to see, do, eat and drink along the way.
The route starts in Portpatrick, a small, picturesque harbor town on the southwest tip of Scotland. The first part of the trail travels along the coast, up and down steep steps and paths on the edge of cliffs, past numerous little coves and caves and through sheep and cow fields. There are stunning views, and on clear days you can see as far as Ireland. There’s plenty of seating dotted along the trail to enjoy the views when you want (and probably need!) to rest your legs. Keep in mind some of the longer sections of the trail will mean you need to bring a packed lunch, so always plan ahead.
The section of the trail that goes through Galloway Forest Park is the most atmospheric, and easily this writer's favorite. It takes you through moss-covered, loud, colorful, leaf-strewn ancient forest. The trail winds alongside rivers, over crumbling stone walls and past lakes. You’ll spot oaks, beeches, hazel trees, holly, different types of mushrooms and berries, and if you’re lucky you might spot buzzards and herons overhead.
There are certain sections of the hike that will also be of interest to anyone fascinated by the history of the region and indeed of Scotland. Bruce’s stone, on the northern edge of Loch Trool, commemorates the Battle of Glen Trool (1307). Robert the Bruce was hiding in the area, and the English troops came down the narrow path along the southern edge of the lake looking for him. The King of Scotland then watched from the opposite shore as his own men ambushed the English from above with heavy stones.
Other places of interest to history buffs along the route include the ruins of the 13th-century (haunted) Sanquhar Castle, the Museum of Lead Mining in Wanlockhead, and various ruins and remnants from WWII.
There is also a treasure hunt that you can take part in along the Southern Upland Way, with hidden coins stashed in sculptured kists (storage chests) at various points along the trail. There are 13 in total, and the golden coins have been designed by local schools. You’ll know that you’re close to one when you see a marking post with a metal plate on it that says “Ultreia” (Latin for “beyond” or “farther”). I’m not allowed to give anything away, but I found one near an old stone bridge in Galloway Forest Park…
Discover the joys of astronomy while dark-sky gazing in Galloway Dark Skies Park
As well as the Southern Upland Way trail, there are a wealth of ways to enjoy Galloway Forest Park, and the wider region of Dumfries and Galloway. This is the UK’s first designated Dark Skies Park, and there are Dark Sky Rangers who can take you out and help you to explore the skies. Elizabeth Tindal is one such local ranger, and dark-sky gazing with her is an incredible experience. Elizabeth is an enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide, who takes you out to a prime gazing spot in the forest. We sat under the stars and bright moon on camping chairs, with blankets over our knees and fingers wrapped around cups of peppermint tea, and Elizabeth taught me about the night skies. You can learn the stars’ and constellations’ various names, facts about lightspeed and distances, and legends, stories and fables inspired by the skies across different cultures and ages. If you’re as lucky as I was, you might even see a shooting star!
Get up close to Highland cows at Kitchen Coos & Ewes
Anyone who spends any time on social media could very well have seen the popular and photogenic Highland cows on one platform or another. Kitchen Coos & Ewes, a farm with pedigree sheep and Highland cows, run a safari tour around their fields to allow visitors to get up close to the beautiful creatures. The charismatic farm owners will teach you all about the cows, their names, their lineage, who gets on with who, give you some great photo opportunities with the cows – ahem, coos – and provide you with tea, coffee and homemade cakes and biscuits at the end. Affable farmhand Chase even taught us about the ecological value of cowpats. These very popular tours, steadily increasing in popularity due to social media, need to be booked in advance. The caramel oatcake is worth a visit by itself.
Reconnect with nature in the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Biosphere
For those interested in Scottish nature and wildlife, Christy Miles of Way of the Wild can help you to navigate the formidable environment of the Southern Uplands. Knowledgeable, interesting and friendly, Christy teaches would-be explorers to use (paper!) maps, to navigate wild spaces without having your phone constantly out, and orientation. You can also receive an excellent primer on foraging and species recognition. I left our walk determined never to use Google maps on a hike again. As well as mountain skills, Christy can also do sessions on bushcraft, fires, foraging, willow-working and forest-bathing.
Learn the basics of the sport of curling
After a day of hiking up and down the hills of the Southern Upland Way, you might think that a sports lesson would be the last thing on your mind. But a curling lesson at the rink in North West Castle Hotel in Stranraer is interesting, energizing and lots and lots of fun. Gail Munro is a Scottish National Champion and manager of the rink, and she is a patient and encouraging instructor. She will show you the ropes, teach you the rules and run you through the different delivery styles available in curling. And then you can play a few games. There is a viewing window from the Alpine bar of the hotel, so beware of possible spectators to your novice curls. But for those looking for something a bit different, curling is worth a go.
How to get to Southwest Scotland – and where to stay
If you want to travel with an eye to your carbon footprint, Southwest Scotland is the perfect destination. It can be accessed by train or bus from other parts of the UK, and is served by a Stenaline ferry route from Belfast that crosses a number of times a day to the port of Cairnryan. It’s also only an 85km drive from Glasgow to Galloway Forest Park.
The available accommodation ranges from the high-end (such as the comfortable Blackaddie House in Sanquhar) to the rustic (there are a couple of bothies along the trail). Inns, hotels and b&bs should always be booked ahead where possible, even in the larger hubs like Stranraer and Dumfries. And for those looking for an extra bit of adventure, wild camping is allowed in Scotland, as long as it is practiced in accordance with the Scottish Outdoor Access Code.
With plenty of restaurants and pubs to be found, you’ll never be stuck on your visit to the region. Restaurants such as Henry’s Bar and Restaurant in Stranraer make great use of fresh local seafood (the scallops are highly recommended), and depending on the time of your visit you might catch the Oyster Festival.
Amy Lynch traveled to Scotland at the invitation of SSDA as part of the Scotland Starts Here campaign. Lonely Planet staff members do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
