A Guide to Kowloon: Hong Kong's most creative district

Kowloon, the peninsula jutting north of Victoria Harbour, is Hong Kong Island’s grittier sibling. Once defined by the jumbled vertical chaos of the Kowloon Walled City and the low-flying challenges of Kai Tak Airport, it is now an artistic crucible where street-level history meets experimental energy. The result is a creative zeitgeist born from collision – young designers sketch ideas alongside Cantonese grandparents preserving heirloom recipes. You’ll find silky cheung fun (rice rolls) rolled fresh by hand, secret‑spice beef brisket noodles simmered to perfection and decades‑old family dim sum techniques in traditional push carts passed down through generations. Just a few streets away, entrepreneurs breathe new life into old spaces with pop‑ups ranging from third‑wave coffee bars and natural wine shops to micro art galleries tucked inside converted shophouses. Families with deep roots continue to anchor the community, balancing their heritage with new opportunities. I love visiting Kowloon for its no‑frills energy, but it’s this creative boom – the dialogue between past and future – that keeps me coming back, often with visiting friends or family in tow.

Getting there and around Kowloon

From the airport, a taxi to Kowloon takes about 40 minutes and can cost up to HK$390 (US$50) depending on traffic and your exact destination. For speed, the Airport Express takes 24 minutes to Hong Kong Station – then transfer via MTR to Kowloon stops like Tsim Sha Tsui or Mong Kok. City buses offer a slightly slower, scenic ride. Once you’re in the city, MTR is king. For short hops between districts, just walk – the alleyways are half the story.

Where to stay in Kowloon

Kowloon’s accommodation scene is as vibrant as its streets, with design‑forward hotels and boutique hideaways that double as creative showcases.

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Tung Nam Lou Art Hotel began life in the 1950s as a family‑run seafood restaurant under Yau  Ma Tei’s neon glow. Today, it pays tribute to its history and surroundings with rotating art shows and hands-on workshops. Rooms are simple and homey, blending antiques – such as creaking rocking chairs and retro telephones – with modern furnishings, including mid-century-style armchairs in vibrant patterns, as well as technologies like iPad menus and Bluetooth speakers. Walls adorned with books hanging artfully add a literary charm.

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Opened in late 2023, Mondrian Hong  Kong makes its home in a lively, unpolished corner of Tsim Sha Tsui. Inside, red-and-white striped rugs quietly echo the city’s nautical history, while hand-painted minibars and delicate wooden sewing boxes make a playful nod to Hong Kong’s textile heritage, and vibrant local art brings a sense of place to every corner. The culture concierge steers you to the hottest concerts and performances, and just across the street, the hotel’s free‑to‑enter Corner Shop pulses with pop‑up art and busking festivals, spotlighting Hong Kong’s next‑generation visual and musical talent.

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If money’s no object, treat yourself to K11  ARTUS. Tucked on Tsim Sha Tsui’s waterfront, it feels less like a hotel and more like a private art studio. You’ll wander gleaming marble corridors, stumble on bespoke installations, and lose track of time in a seven‑metre library that frames the harbor like a living painting. The K11 Craft & Guild Foundation hosts exhibitions on traditional Chinese craftsmanship, while the artist in residence program supports emerging talent. Each residence comes with a balcony that boasts unbeatable panoramas of the Victoria Harbour, making it one of my favorite spots for skyline gazing.

Where to get coffee/tea in Kowloon

Kowloon’s cafés are as creative as its galleries. In Sham Shui Po, Dozy is the sort of spot you’ll find by following the scent of freshly ground beans and the small crowd queuing outside. Inside, raw concrete walls and mismatched wooden chairs give it a stripped-back, industrial feel, softened by warm pools of light and the hum of quiet conversation. 

A short hop away in Yau Ma Tei, Kubrick is a cultural classic. Tucked next to the Broadway Cinematheque, it’s part café, part indie bookshop, and entirely the kind of place you’ll lose an afternoon in. Order a velvety cappuccino, browse shelves stacked with design tomes and obscure film theory, then settle into a corner table for some espresso-fueled people-watching before catching an arthouse screening next door. 

But for sheer personality, nothing compares to Mum's Not Home. Half queer hangout, half tearoom, it’s a riot of color and charm: retro furniture splashed with hand-painted murals, potted plants climbing up the walls, and an atmosphere that feels like a friend’s living room. Order the butterfly pea lime cheesecake and chat with the owners, who’ll probably recommend a local gig or art show. At many of these cafes, you’ll spot flyers for independent galleries, gigs and pop-up markets, so keep an eye out for them for a dose of inspiration.

Where to eat in Kowloon

Whether you’re craving a humble bowl of congee or a Michelin‑starred feast, Kowloon delivers flavors for every palate and pocket.

Breakfast

Start with congee at Chung Kee in Yau Ma Tei – creamy, unfussy and best paired with a century egg. In Jordan, the iconic Australia Dairy Company is chaos and charm: a fast-paced, no-nonsense cha chaan teng (Hong Kong diner) where waiters bark orders in rapid-fire Cantonese, plates of velvety scrambled eggs and buttery toast arrive within minutes, and you’re expected to eat, pay and move on with equal speed. If you’re craving a hearty brunch with a touch of London nostalgia, Brick Lane in Tsim Sha Tsui delivers with perfectly poached eggs Benedict and thick, indulgent milkshakes.

Lunch

Bagus Bagus serves up fragrant Malaysian laksa, kaya toast slathered in coconut jam and strong kopi in a cozy, traditional-style shophouse that feels straight out of Penang.

Over in Sham Shui Po, The Park by Years redefines vegan cool with vibrant, flavor-packed plates that fuse Asian staples with global café favorites, like spicy Thai tom yum risotto or creamy coconut morning glory spaghetti.

Pre‑dinner Drinks

In Jordan, Terrible Baby crowns the Eaton HK hotel with a rooftop of pulsing neon and soul jazz that wraps around you like a late-night hug. After a hot summer’s day, sip on one of their fruity concoctions – the Pineapple Express is one of my personal favorites – as you sink into low-slung chairs.

Tsim Sha Tsui’s Bar Butler is a tiny gem – just 18 seats of polished wood; soft lamplight; and the smooth, woody aroma of Japanese whisky. It’s the kind of place where the bartender knows your name and every drink feels carefully crafted just for you. 

Over in Prince Edward, Bound keeps things effortlessly cool. The natural wines burst with juicy orchard notes, the cocktails have playful spice and the vibe drifts between indie beats and soulful funk. 

In Mong Kok, Graceland goes all-in on Memphis kitsch with its Elvis posters, neon beer signs and crispy fried chicken. The crackling vinyl jukebox spins blues and rock ’n’ roll, making it impossible not to tap your foot.

Dinner

Scarlett in Jordan is where French bistro classics meet a relaxed, friendly buzz – think baked warm Camembert and duck leg confit alongside lively chatter and clinking glasses. Over at the Rosewood Hotel, Chaat takes a modern, upscale approach to Indian street food – from the oyster pani puri with Kristal caviar to Kerala lobster curry – serving up dishes so refined they’ve earned a Michelin star. If you’re after something lighter on the wallet, pop into Tim Ho Wan in West Kowloon for affordable dim sum that doesn’t skimp on flavor — it’s a true Hong Kong institution beloved by locals and visitors alike.

What to do in Kowloon

Start your art adventure in Sham Shui Po at DX Design Hub, a big, open space where emerging artists constantly rotate fresh exhibitions. You might find anything from incense-making workshops to quirky fashion pop-ups featuring bags inspired by Hong Kong’s MTR map. 

Just a short walk away is Parallel Space, a gritty gallery set in a former feather factory. The white-cube setting perfectly suits the edgy shows they put on – such as graffiti art or comic book launches.

When evening comes, head up to Thy Lab, a sleek performing arts space with a rooftop terrace. From food-meets-art performances to artist residencies, this communal hub is a great place to exchange ideas with like-minded creatives.

A quick trip takes you to the Jockey Club Creative Arts Centre (JCCAC) in Shek Kip Mei. This huge former factory is now full of artist studios, print workshops, and galleries. You’ll see everything from art jamming to delicate ceramics and hear the hum of printing presses and soft conversations. 

Where to shop in Kowloon

Markets here are a treasure hunt. In Sham Shui Po, Yu Chau St (Bead St) overflows with charms and glass strands, while nearby Ki Lung St stocks every button and zip you could think of. The fabric narket dazzles with sequins, lace and tulle; Leather St offers wallets and handmade belts. Mong Kok’s Ladies’ Market is touristy but unmissable for bargain souvenirs.

Beyond the stalls, Midway Shop in Sham Shui Po is your go-to for handcrafted homewares. For something truly old-school, Sindart in Yau Ma Tei still hand-embroiders traditional Chinese shoes. And if you love vinyl, White Noise Records and Vinyl Hero in Sham Shui Po will keep crate-diggers busy for hours.

My favorite thing to do in Kowloon

I always find myself drawn to Broadway Cinematheque in Yau Ma Tei. Tucked behind Temple St bustle, this indie cinema screens Korean dramas, French noir and rare Asian documentaries. Afterward, I pop next door to Kubrick for a coffee, thumbing through books and indie magazines. If the timing’s right, I head to M+ at Night in West Kowloon – an after-hours program with live music, workshops and themed exhibitions. Be sure to check the calendar for upcoming dates, and book ahead.

After dark in Kowloon

When the lights dim, Kowloon’s contrasts grow sharper. Jazz floats through the smoky elegance of DarkSide at the Rosewood, where cocktails meet cabaret cool. Out on Temple St, it’s all volume and neon – outdoor karaoke, fortune-telling, sizzling street food. And in Mong Kok, SLAP Hong Kong blurs the line between club and installation, accompanied with immersive DJ sets.

What to know about Kowloon

Despite being the edgier area of Hong Kong, Kowloon is incredibly safe – solo strolls and late-night dawdles are the norm. Just avoid the MTR during weekday rush hours (8:00am to 10:00am, 6:00pm to 7:00pm) unless you enjoy human Tetris. Locals tend to queue patiently, so follow their lead. When in doubt, offering or receiving with both hands is a small gesture that goes a long way here.

When to visit Kowloon

October to April is ideal: dry, cool, perfect for market hopping and rooftop drinks. Summer swelters, though air-conditioned cafés offer reprieve. Note that Chinese New Year (late January or February) brings crowds and closures but also street parades and firecracker spirit. Come with curiosity and an open mind, and Kowloon will reward you in spades.