Guide to Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula

Given Alaska's mind-boggling size (more than four times the area of California), planning a trip there can be overwhelming. That's why I’ve curated this expert guide to exploring Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula, a spectacularly scenic coastal mountain oasis just one hour south of Anchorage, Alaska’s largest city.

Best explored by car via two of North America’s most iconic scenic highways, a trip to the Kenai Peninsula offers a sampling of everything Alaska has to offer – from remote national parks and seaside ski resorts to aerial glacier flights and charming fishing villages – all in a bite-sized area roughly the size of West Virginia.

When should I go to Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula?

Those looking to take advantage of Alaska’s prime weather months should make the trek from June through August, when panoramic views of the Kenai mountains set against a sky-blue background of water and sky are most likely to be enjoyed with minimal cloud cover. Summer is technically the busy season, so expect higher costs and longer wait times for popular activities as many Alaskans and non-Alaskans make their way to the coast during this time. However, the Kenai region (and Alaska in general) is so massive in size that it’s easy to find a quick escape from the crowds.

Leaf peepers can make their way to the Kenai from September through November, but be prepared for frequent rain (typically more of a steady drizzle than oppressive downpours, but you’ll need a rain jacket). Brave souls are welcome to experience Alaska at its most wild and remote – the way Alaska was meant to be seen – during its famously cold and snowy winters. Skiers and snowboarders will be happy to experience the posh comforts of Alyeska Resort, Alaska’s only ski resort, located in the Kenai just a short drive from Anchorage, the main arrival port.

How much time should I spend in Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula?

Spend at least a week exploring the region’s impressive variety of terrain, from glaciers and mountains to beaches and rainforest. If a week isn't possible, the Kenai is compact enough that you can still get a good sense of the place in a quick weekend trip from Anchorage.

While cruise ships are an increasingly popular method of travel among older generations, I find a rental car from Anchorage to be a more than sufficient (and authentic) means for immersing yourself in this natural wilderness while still being able to travel at your own pace.

Is it easy to get in and around Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula?

Interestingly enough, Alaska does offer scenic rail service from Anchorage south to Seward, one of the Kenai Peninsula’s most popular coastal towns. (The train also runs in the opposite direction north to Denali National Park.) For those looking to snag seats on the popular “Coastal Classic” tourist train, be prepared for a leisurely pace and eye-popping views through large picture windows at most every turn. (Bonus points for chatting up your neighbors and making friends, of course.)

However, car travel is most aligned with the state’s go-your-own-way wilderness ethos and spirit. And road travelers get to enjoy not one but two of North America’s most scenic highways: extending south along the world-famous Seward Highway from Anchorage, as well as the lesser-known but highly recommended Sterling Highway traveling west towards the artsy fishing hamlet of Homer.

Top things to do in Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula 

From charming fishing villages and locals-friendly dive bars to scenic wildlife cruises and adrenaline-packed “flightseeing” excursions around the Kenai’s trademark glaciers, there is no shortage of guided tours in this region known as “Alaska’s Playground.” But if you’d rather simply drive with no destination in mind and let the vibes dictate your direction, there’s no place better.

Take a scenic boat cruise through Kenai Fjords National Park

Even if you’re not a “tour person,” it’s hard to find fault with the expertly crafted wilderness cruises curated by Kenai Fjords Tours in the coastal Kenai Fjords National Park. Not only will you see a range of aquatic wildlife (from seals and puffins to hopefully a few whales) in their natural habitat, but the majestic beauty of the surrounding region’s cloud-misted wonderland is a sight unmatched in the Lower 48. Bonus points for comfy indoor seats, funny guides and booze on board the cruise.

Ride high on an aerial glacier and bear-viewing “flightseeing” trip

Seeing glaciers and bears is one of the chief reasons people come to this region, and there’s no shortage of options (although, sadly, fewer glaciers than there once were due to climate change). Beryl Air offers a range of options departing from Homer’s lovely little Beluga Lake via Cessna 206 floatplanes, which are the transport mode of choice in Alaska to reach its most remote areas. If you have a little cash to throw around, their “National Parks Flight” covers both Lake Clark National Park and Katami National Park.

Drive the world-renowned Seward Highway for majestic views

The mind-blowing mountain and glacier vistas rising above the water as you drive south from Anchorage along the Seward Highway in the Turnagain Arm region of the Kenai make this a bucket-list worthy roadway that rivals California’s Highway 1 or anything else the Lower 48 has to offer. But don’t miss out on the underrated Sterling Highway from Seward to Homer, which completes the scenic wilderness loop of your dreams.

My favorite thing to do in Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula

Some destinations you fall in love with the instant you lay eyes on them. For me, the funky little coastal town of Homer is one of those places. On a clear day, jaw-dropping coastal mountain vistas provide a first glimpse of what’s in store for travelers to this slightly off-the-beaten-path destination. And the scenery is complemented perfectly by the 6000 or so colorful characters who call this place home, best intermingled with at a friendly local watering hole such as the Salty Dawg Saloon, perched in the middle of Homer’s main tourist thoroughfare, a lively scenic peninsula known as the Homer Spit.

With everything from local community productions at Pier One Theatre to mountain-facing outdoor spas at the Homer Inn & Spa, Homer is here to welcome you without fear of judgment – so come as you are. Also, don’t miss the aerial seaplane flight into the surrounding glaciers with Beryl Air for an experience that just can’t be matched in the Lower 48.

How much money do I need for Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula?

Despite what you may first think of such a rugged wilderness destination, Alaska (including the Kenai Peninsula) is by no means a bargain. However, its variety of experiences and choices still manages to lend itself well to budget travelers who don’t mind a little adventure.

• Night at a typical hotel or Airbnb: from 150 American dollars (US$150)

• Scenic train ride from Anchorage to Seward (June to Sept): from US$100

• Scenic glacier “flightseeing” trip: from US$195

• Day spa: from US$150 per hour

• Seafood entrée from Ray’s Waterfront in Seward: from US$40

• Daylong fishing excursion in the Kenai region: US$250 to US$450

• Ticket to community theatre production in Homer: US$10 to US$20

Where to stay in Alaska’s Kenai Peninsula

High-end travelers and families will want to point their GPS towards Alyeska Resort in the town of Girdwood, a full-service ski resort with its own aerial tram operating in summer. Grab a pint at the rooftop bar and marvel at the wilderness you now inhabit. The stunning Odyssey Lodge perched off the coast of Homer offers more of an upscale wilderness retreat vibe, with eight cozy cabins only accessible by a quick scenic boat ride from Homer. The lodge’s top-of-the-line on-site restaurant, The Meandering Goat, is worth the boat trip alone.

For a fun mid-range option, consider the pristine Airbnb-styled Salted Roots cabins serenely perched on a quiet stretch of beachfront real estate just a few minutes from the sleepy coastal town of Seward. Those brave souls looking to go really off the grid Into the Wild-style, should definitely make the trek to one of Kenai Fjords National Park’s 12 front country camp sites located at Exit Glacier. No reservations, no fees. Welcome to Alaska.  

Jay Gentile traveled to Alaska with assistance from Travel Alaska. Lonely Planet contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.