How to spend the ultimate weekend in Hyères on the Côte d’Azur

When people imagine the Côte d'Azur, glamorous resorts such as Cannes and St-Tropez leap to mind, but you can escape the crowds in Hyères. Just inland from the coast to the west of St-Tropez, Hyères is a city with a rich history and a sparkling beach scene – perfect for a weekend relaxing on France's coolest coast.

Three days is the perfect timeframe to get the measure of this peaceful corner of Provence. Although Hyères is one of the quieter corners of the Côte d'Azur, you'll still find the whole French Riviera package, from historic buildings and beaches to cool modern art.

The medieval castle above the old town is a must-see for its panoramic views, while contemporary galleries and museums call out to culture lovers. And you absolutely shouldn’t miss the Île de Porquerolles, a car-free island with sparkling beaches and a family-friendly vibe, just a short ferry ride away from the Presqu’île de Giens peninsula, immediately south of Hyères.

Whether you're drawn by the beaches, the art, the food or the peace and quiet, here's how to spend the perfect weekend in Hyères.

• When to arrive: Arrive in Hyères on Thursday evening to get the best from a three-day weekend. You'll be able to see Hyères at its quietest on Friday and still enjoy the fun that the weekend brings. Traveling Saturday to Monday works less well, as many sights are closed on Mondays. The ideal time to visit is in spring or fall; summer is busier and more expensive, and during the off-season, from October to March, some restaurants and sights close, and some activity operators shut down for the season. Always check hours before you visit.

• How to get from the airport: The closest airport is Toulon-Hyères Airport, about 3km southeast of the center, which has year-round flights from Paris, and seasonal flights from London and several other European cities. It’s only a 10-minute drive into town, so taking a taxi won't eat up too much of your budget; expect to pay around 20 euros (€). For a low-cost alternative, bus number 63 runs every hour through winter from 7am to 7pm and more frequently in summer; the stop closest to the old town is Jean Jaures.

• Getting around town: The historic center of Hyères is not really suitable for cars so getting around on foot is the easiest option. You'll only need a car if you plan to see other parts of the To explore the nearby Île de Porquerolles, you’ll want wheels – by which we mean a bicycle, as the island is car-free. Bus 67 goes from central Hyères to the Tour Fondue at the tip of the Presqu’île de Giens peninsula, where ferries depart for Porquerolles, and you can rent a bike when you reach the island.

• Where to stay: Near the center, don’t miss the design creativity of the beautiful Lilou Hotel or the historic, renovated L’Hôtel des Palmiers. If you want easy beach access during the warm summer season, then book one of the glamping bungalows at Camping les Moulières. If you have a car or bike, the best-kept camping secret of the Côte d’Azur is Camping à la Ferme le Pradeau, a tiny and rustic campsite right on the water on the Presqu’île de Giens.

• What to pack: That depends on the season; in summer (or late spring and early fall), bring beachy clothes, plus enough warm layers to cover up if the weather turns cooler or the wind picks up. If you plan to hike, bring hiking sandals or comfortable walking shoes. The weather is warm enough for swimming from June to September, so don't forget your swimsuit and sunscreen.

Day 1

Use your first day in Hyères to enjoy the beaches of nearby Île de Porquerolles, about 1km offshore from the tip of the Presqu’île de Giens.

Morning: If the weather is nice, you can enjoy the beautiful beaches on the small island of Porquerolles before the weekend visitors arrive. Book your ferry in advance with TLV (there are departures every hour or so) and pack your beach gear. There are a half-dozen bike rental services at the port when you arrive on the island.

How to spend the day: On arrival in Porquerolles, you can explore the port and walk up to the 14th-century Fort Sainte-Agathe on the hilltop for the views, before hitting the beach, or cycling off through the forests and vineyards. Families will enjoy the Plage de la Courtade, a 10-minute walk east from the port; there's more secluded sand further east at Plage Notre-Dame, about 45 minutes away on foot (or 20 minutes by bicycle).

Alternatively, pedal over to Plage d’Argent to the west of the port, which has been feted as the most beautiful beach in France. It’s a 30-minute walk or a 15-minute bike ride away. There are several hidden coves dotted around the island, with access to sparkling Mediterranean waters; Calanque de l’Oustaou-de-Diou on the south coast is a scenic escape.

In summer, you can explore the Calanque du Brégançonnet with a mask and snorkel and can go on a randonnée palmé, or an underwater hike; beneath the waves are weighted buoys with information about local marine species. If you don't have your own gear, Aqualonde at Port Miramar just east of Hyères can arrange snorkeling and diving trips around the island, including to the wreck of the Cimentier barge.

For lunch, either bring a picnic with you to the island or stop in at the restaurant at La Plage d’Argent (open April to September); the menu is coastal with Mediterranean touches, including good octopus and tuna dishes. Order a crisp rosé wine from the Domaine d’ïle, Porquerolles’ own winery, to enjoy with the meal.

Dinner: If you fancy a cocktail before you head back to Hyères, stop in at L’Orangerie, right on the port. The cod acras (little fried balls of dough, spices, and fish) go perfectly with an Aperol spritz. Alternatively, make reservations at Le Cadet 83 in the old port of Hyères for generously plated local dishes served in a convivial dining room.

After dark: Looking for a nightcap before you wrap up your Friday evening? Vinoterre Happy is open late and has a wonderful selection of wines, alongside some enticing spirit-based drinks. Try a coastal nightcap, like a Ricard, or an infused rum.

Day 2

On your second day, take in Hyères' medieval castle and the town's weekend market.

Morning: Ease into day two slowly and embrace the French art of being a flâneur – an observer of life. Café Vola opens at 9am and here you’ll find a perfect espresso and a welcoming neighborhood bistro atmosphere. Otherwise, the cafes on place Saint-Paul and place Massillon are good spots to people-watch.

How to spend the day: If you can pull yourself away from your café terrace, wander through Hyères' Saturday morning market, which takes over the old town and the Avenue Gambetta. It's a great spot to stock up on seasonal produce for a picnic lunch. Whatever the time of year, you’ll find something freshly harvested or made: radishes in spring, summer melons, mushrooms and chestnuts in fall, sweet preserves in winter. Grab some bread, a few crottins de chevre – pieces of goat cheese – and some local charcuterie, and the picnic has pretty much made itself.

Work up an appetite for that picnic by walking up to the Castel Sainte-Claire, a superb neo-Romanesque style mansion built on the foundations of an old convent to the south of the hilltop Chateau d'Hyères. The adjoining Parc Sainte-Claire is classified as a Remarkable Garden, with 6500 sq meters of flowers and tropical vegetation. You can spend hours wandering around the park and admiring the stunning views of the sea.

From the Castel Sainte-Claire, you can continue for another 20 minutes up to the Château d'Hyères, crowning Castéou hill. This stunning fortress was one of the most important fortifications in Provence and the original structure dates to the 10th century. It’s a steep climb, but you’ll get amazing views of the city and the coast. Spread out your market haul and enjoy lunch while you soak in the vista.

After lunch, wander back to your hotel for a nap, and then venture out to visit the shops of Hyères. Maison Godillot is a surprisingly trendy shop for this calm location, with a mix of Japanese home goods and local dry goods. A half dozen art galleries also dot the streets, including ArtDanh and the cute illustrations shop God Save the Teatime.

Dinner: Snag a table at Au Fil de l’Eau, an excellent spot for seafood dishes, tucked into a small pedestrian passageway; the razor clams and the selection of local beers warrant special mention. The restaurant is small so reservations are recommended.

After dark: Catch dinner and a show or try your hand at the games of chance at the Pasino de Hyères, the casino at the luxurious Hôtel des Palmiers. The stages here host a busy program of concerts and plays, while in-house restaurant and lounge Le Vic has live music every Saturday night.

Day 3

On the last day, make time for art, after a leisurely brunch.

Morning: Get off to a good start on Sunday by snagging a coveted spot for brunch at Lilou Hotel. Served in two seatings at 11:30am and 1:30pm, this must-try brunch showcases the best of local and seasonal fare. You can dine inside the chic restaurant in winter or out on the terrace in summer.

Diners are treated to an impressive spread of home-made French pastries, regional charcuterie, cheeses, oysters, prawns, sushi-grade tuna, smoked salmon, scrambled eggs with herbs, seasonal quiches, and refreshing salads featuring local citrus fruit. The spread changes with the seasons, and reservations are highly recommended.

How to spend the day: Wrap up your weekend with a visit to the Villa Noailles, a national art center that houses Hyères' impresive museum of modern art. Built by architect Robert Mallet-Stevens for art patrons Charles and Marie-Laure de Noailles in the 1920s, this modernist mansion hosts modern art exhibitions throughout the year, while the permanent collection of artworks and items of furniture reveals secrets about its history.

You can spend the afternoon exploring the different exhibitions and learning about the history of the villa, before stepping outside the gates into adjacent Parc Saint-Bernard. This peaceful haven offers a panoramic view of the bay to bookend your visit. As you’re leaving town, stop near one of the squares to watch a game ofpétanque, the emblematic ball-throwing game loved by locals across the south of France.