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Northern Armenia

North of Yerevan are the marz (provinces) of Kotayk, Aragatsotn, Shirak, Lori and Tavush. To their west lies the province of Gegharkunik, which links Lori and Tavush with the southern provinces along the edge of Lake Sevan.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Northern Armenia.

Fortress
Lori Berd
On a promontory between the gorges of the Dzoragets and Miskhana Rivers, this ruined fortress has huge towers and massive stone blocks along its exposed side. Originally the base of David Anhogin, who ruled the region of Tashir-Dzoraget from 989 to 1048, it eventually became a base for the Orbelians and Zakarians, powerful Armenian noble families. There are ruined buildings worth exploring, an ancient cemetery and hillocks that are actually Bronze Age tumulus tombs. A 14th-century bridge is in the gorge below.
Monastery
Haghpat Monastery
Occupying a commanding position overlooking the gorge, this monastery has atmosphere and architectural splendour in spades. Founded around 976 by Queen Khosrvanuch, who funded construction of the domed Surp Nishan (Church of the Holy Cross) at the centre of the complex, it saw a building boom in the 12th and 13th centuries. Surp Nishan's frescoes and the porch, gavit, bell tower, library and chapter house were added at this time. The monastery's name means 'huge wall', acknowledging its hefty fortifications.
Monastery
Haghartsin Monastery
Hidden in a verdant valley 13km northeast of Dilijan, Haghartsin ('Dance of the Eagles’) was built between the 10th and 13th centuries and has three churches: one named for Gregory the Illuminator; another for the Virgin Mary (Surp Astvatsatsin); and the third for St Stephen (Stepanos). There are stunning khachkars (carved stone crosses; don't miss the one on the southern wall of Surp Astvatsatsin), a sundial on the wall of St Gregory, a ruined gavit (antechamber) and a refectory with a stunning arched ceiling.
Monastery
Akhtala Monastery
Akhtala, a small village 20km northeast of Alaverdi, has one major claim to fame: the magnificent frescoes in its 13th-century church. These include a stunning Virgin Mary in the apse, and depictions of the Last Supper, Last Judgement, Crucifixion and Resurrection on other walls. Note the fresco of bearded Persians, said to have been painted so that invading armies would spare the church. To get to the church, you'll need to walk through towering 10th-century basalt fortifications.
Monastery
Sanahin Monastery
Sanahin is a World Heritage site packed with ancient graves, darkened chapels and medieval study halls. The inner sanctum of the cross-shaped Surp Astvatsatsin (Holy Mother of God Church) is the oldest structure, dating back to 934. Its adjoining gavit was built in 1181. In its heyday, the monastery was renowned for its school of illuminators and calligraphers and also for its medical school. Its name means ‘older than that one’, referring to nearby Haghpat Monastery.
Monastery
Goshavank
Founded in 1188 by the saintly Armenian cleric Mkhitar Gosh, who was buried in a little chapel overlooking the main complex, this monastery features a main church (Surp Astvatsatsin), smaller churches to St Gregory of Narek and St Gregory the Illuminator, and a matenadaran (library) that is said to have held 15,000 books. A fourth church topped by a bell tower was built on top of the library in 1291; entrance was via the external cantilevered staircase.
Monastery
Kobayr Monastery
Perched above the hamlet of Kobayr is the 12th-century monastery of the same name. The main church has some partially restored Georgian-style frescoes and a detached 13th-century bell tower. There are also three chapels, one with a scenic circular balcony. Behind the main church is a beautiful slow-dripping waterfall that's also worth seeing.
Church
St Astvatsatsin Church
Built on the site where legend tells us St Thomas buried Christ's swaddling clothes in the 1st century, the core of St Astvatsatsin dates from the 5th century but had considerable additions in the 8th century. The current building features plenty of carved bas reliefs, a central cupola, a handsome external pillared arcade on its southern side and two 19th-century belfries. The unusual funerary monument next to it is thought to date from the 6th century.
Museum
Dilijan Local Lore Museum and Picture Gallery
Housing an eclectic collection of European and Armenian art from the 16th to 20th centuries, this gallery is Dilijan's major cultural institution. Some of the older works from Italian and French artists had been housed in museums in Moscow and St Petersburg but were moved to Dilijan during WWII for safekeeping. The standout Armenian work is Arpenik Nalbandyan's Cézanne-like Children from Khndzoresk. Downstairs is a thrilling ethnography and archaeology collection featuring axes and chain mail.