Detour to days of yore, when this neighborhood was a sleepy seaside village – before lumber barons arrived with bombastic Victorian fanfare. Serene clapboard cottages that once housed Japanese fisherfolk line a brick-paved pedestrian promenade, where plum trees and bonsai take center stage. Homes are private, but the central Zen mini-park is perfect for sushi picnics. Cottage Row is off Sutter St, between Webster and Fillmore Sts.