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US Virgin Islands

Hmm, which of the US Virgin Islands (USVI) to choose for hammock-strewn beaches, conch fritters and preposterously blue water? Easy: any one, though each differs in personality. St Thomas has more resorts and water sports than you can shake a beach towel at and is the most developed island, with dizzying cruise-ship traffic. St John cloaks two-thirds of its area in parkland and sublime shores, ripe for hiking and snorkeling. It leads the way in environmental preservation and draws a more outdoorsy crowd. The largest Virgin, St Croix, pleases divers and drinkers with extraordinary scuba sites and rum factories. It's the furthest-flung island and offers the greatest immersion in local life. Wherever you go, get ready for reggae rhythms, curried meats and mango-sweetened microbrews. These are US territories, but they feel a world away.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout US Virgin Islands.

  • See

    Christiansted National Historic Site

    This historic site includes several structures. The most impressive is Fort Christiansvaern (1749), a four-point citadel occupying the deep-yellow buildings on the town’s east side. Built out of Danish bricks (brought over as ships’ ballast), the fort guarded against pirate onslaughts, hurricanes and slave revolts. Cannon on the ramparts, an echoey, claustrophobic dungeon, and latrines with top-notch sea views await inside. The fort entrance has brochures for self-guided exploration of the other nearby historic buildings.

  • See

    Leinster Bay

    This bay adjoins the Annaberg mill ruins. Park in the plantation’s lot and follow the trail along the water for 25 minutes. Some of St John’s best snorkeling is at the bay’s east end, offshore at Waterlemon Cay, where turtles, spotted eagle rays, barracudas and nurse sharks swim. Be aware that the current can be strong. There are no amenities and usually few people out here.

  • See

    Isaac Bay

    This secluded beach off Rte 82 offers no shade or facilities, and you'll have to hike about 20 minutes through scrub to reach it, but you'd be hard-pressed to find a more beautiful stretch of sand. The Nature Conservancy manages the area as part of a preserve for green and hawksbill turtles, which are active from July to December. Snorkeling on the coral reef here is good, though be careful of the strong current. To get to the beach, take the trail down the hill from the Point Udall car park. Isaac Bay is actually the second beach you come to on the trail (down the wooden stairs). From the western end of Isaac the trail continues to Jack Bay, which is also part of the nature preserve. Nudists sometimes hang out on the beaches.

  • See

    Annaberg Sugar Mill Ruins

    Part of the national park, this site near Leinster Bay is home to the most intact sugar-plantation ruins in the Virgin Islands. A 30-minute self-directed walking tour leads you through the slave quarters, village, windmill, rum still and dungeon. The schooner drawings on the dungeon wall may date back more than 100 years. Cultural demonstrations take place here at least three days a week and range from baking 'dum bread' to basketweaving. Afterwards, tread the Leinster Bay Trail that starts near the picnic area and ends at, yep, Leinster Bay. It’s 1.6 miles round trip.

  • See

    Cruzan Rum Distillery

    To find out how the islands’ popular elixir gets made, stop by the historic distillery for a tour. The journey through the oak-barrel-stacked warehouses with their aroma of gingerbread (from the molasses and yeast) takes 20 minutes, after which you get to sip plenty of the good stuff. The Nelthropp family, Cruzan Rum's owners, have been perfecting the recipes since 1760. Cash not accepted; credit cards only.

  • See

    Francis Bay

    Francis Bay is home to one of the most serene stretches of sand on St John, with calm waters and fewer tourists than at any other beach of its size. It's also a prime spot for birdwatching, with an easy half-mile trail that circles around a salt pond over to the ruins of the Francis Bay Estate House. The best snorkeling here is along the rocky northern edge of the beach, by Mary Point.

  • See

    Virgin Islands National Park

    VI National Park covers two-thirds of St John, plus 5650 acres underwater. It’s a tremendous resource, offering miles of shoreline, pristine reefs and 26 hiking trails. The park visitor center sits on the dock across from the Mongoose Junction shopping arcade. It’s an essential first stop to obtain free guides on hiking, birdwatching, petroglyph sites and ranger-led activities. Green iguanas, geckos, hawksbill turtles and wild donkeys roam the landscape. A couple of good trails leave from behind the center.

  • See

    Maho Bay

    The water here is shallow and less choppy than elsewhere (good for snorkeling and kids), and it’s a good bet you’ll see green sea turtles in the early morning or late afternoon, and maybe a stingray or two. There's a parking lot and a changing room, as well as a bar, a food truck and water-sports rentals. Maho can get crowded (especially after 11am), but never overwhelmingly so.

  • See

    Buck Island Reef National Monument

    For such a small landmass – 1 mile long by half a mile wide – Buck Island draws big crowds. It’s not so much what’s on top but what’s underneath that fascinates: a 19,015-acre, fish-frenzied coral-reef system, protected as Buck Island Reef National Monument, that surrounds the island. The sea gardens and a marked underwater trail create captivating snorkeling on the island’s east side. Most visitors glide here aboard tour boats departing from Christiansted, 5 miles to the west. Note that in winter the trade winds blow hard at Buck Island, which can result in rough water for newbies to the mask and fins. On the island, pretty Turtle Beach is where endangered hawksbill and green sea turtles come ashore. A hiking trail circles the island’s west end and leads to an impressive observation point.

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