Alongside Wat Pha Lat, the temple of Wat Umong Suan Phutthatham is likely Chiang Mai’s most famous forest temple and another construction from the King Mangrai era, dating back some 700 years. Despite being as old as some ruins, Wat Umong remains a working monastery, with resident monks, meditation sessions and occasional monk chats (although when asked, monks never seem to know exactly when these will happen).
Walk its calm pathways, and you’ll soon understand why Wat Umong is so beloved. The temple itself is hidden within a forest and is partially underground, hence its name umong, which translates to "tunnels." Step closer to the bell-shaped chedi (stupa) and you’ll find mysterious brick tunnels that disappear underneath the ground, with tiny candles leaving soot marks on the alcoves that dot the walls. Deeper still, statues of the Buddha dance in the flickering light as devotees leave flowers and unlit incense as offerings.
Out of the tunnels, you’ll find a pond that’s frequented by hundreds of friendly pigeons, and winding forest walks lined with famous "taking trees," named for the whimsical Buddhist quotes on life, death and philosophy (in both Thai and English) that are found within their branches.
