Step through the gate of Longshan Temple to hear the clatter of moon blocks, the rattle of fortune sticks and the melody of Buddhist chanting. Longshan is a working temple, and it's big and anonymous enough to just sit back and watch the people praying.
Founded in 1738 by immigrants from Fujian, China, Longshan is Taipei's oldest temple. The present structure, of course, is much younger; it was rebuilt many times following damage from earthquakes, typhoons and World War II bombing raids.
These days it is one of the city's top religious sites, and a prime venue for exploring both Taiwan's vibrant folk faith and its unique temple arts and architecture. The temple can get very congested with tourists; try coming early in the morning (before 8am) or late in the evening (after 8pm) to avoid the crush. Everywhere you look, there is something to see. Admire the sweeping swallowtail eaves, colorful decorative figures on the roof, and elaborate woodcarvings. If there’s a breeze, the giant yellow lanterns, each one the size of a bear, swing hypnotically from their beams.
Longshan is dedicated to the Bodhisattva of mercy, Guanyin, though in true Taiwanese style, over 100 other deities are worshipped here, including Matsu, the goddess of the sea; Wenchang Dijun, the god of literature (come during exam period to see just how important he is!); and the Old Man Under the Moon, known as the Matchmaker or the Chinese Cupid.
Check out the two-of-a-kind bronze pillars outside the front hall and the incense holders outside the main hall. The handles depict a common temple motif: The Fool Holding up the Sky. The western-style appearance of the "fools" is no coincidence. They are said to represent the Dutch (or sometimes Dutch slaves), who occupied Taiwan in the 17th century.
The best times to visit Longshan are around 6am, 8am and 5pm, when crowds of worshippers gather and engage in hypnotic chanting. Or try Guanyin's birthday on the 19th day of the second lunar month, or the weeks before and during Lunar New Year.