Iron Fort

Matsu

This dinky little fortified islet, linked by a footbridge to the main island, is a pretty strip of coral topped by a cactus-lined walkway, but cut into the rock beneath is a narrow tunnel linking to a handful of sniper slots. Access is from the attractive, almost traffic-free land that links Renai and Jinsha villages.

Gruesome stories are told by Matsu residents of how frogmen from mainland China would sneak inside the fort at night, slit the throats of the Taiwanese guards on duty and carry back an ear to show their comrades.