Framed by the majestic Basílica de Santa Maria del Mar and the former Mercat del Born, leafy Passeig del Born was Barcelona's main playground from the 13th to 18th centuries. It’s a place in which to sit as much as to promenade, and it’s here in this graceful setting beneath the trees that El Born’s essential appeal is obvious – thronging people, brilliant bars and architecture from a medieval film set.