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Gangwon-do

Mountainous Gangwon-do (강원도) gives you some of South Korea’s most spectacular natural parks and scenic landscapes, up-close Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) experiences, and laid-back coastal towns and beaches on the East Sea. This is where many Seoulites escape – to get lost in the hills, chow down on Chuncheon’s fiery chicken dish dakgalbi or the raw fish of the coastal towns, or leap into a frenzy of sports such as skiing in Pyeongchang, which hosted the 2018 Winter Olympics.

While the province may not have that much by way of cultural antiquities, what it does have – Gangneung’s 400-year-old Dano Festival, for instance – it celebrates with zest. And Gangwon-do can be quirky, too. Near Samcheok you’ll find a park full of unabashed phallic sculptures standing cheek by jowl with a humble fishing village, while Gangneung has a museum dedicated to its founder’s lifelong obsession with all things Edison.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Gangwon-do.

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Ojukheon
Revered as the birthplace of the paragon of Korean womanhood, Sin Saimdang (1504–51), and her son, the philosopher and government official Yi Yulgok (1536–84), this fascinating complex contains one of the oldest surviving Joseon-dynasty homes. The vast space has the feel of an elegant park, with ancient buildings nestled amid punctiliously maintained gardens, courtyards, lotus pools, the black-stemmed bamboo groves for which the property is named as well as huge open areas. Many of Sin’s paintings are on display at Ojukheon, including a delicate folding screen with eight studies of flowers and insects. The building, Eojegak, preserves a children’s textbook which Yi authored and hand-wrote, Gyeokmongyogyeol. Sin Saimdang was an accomplished poet and artist, and is traditionally regarded in Korea as a model daughter, wife and mother. Her visage graces the ₩50,000 note – a move that irked some women’s groups, who say it reinforces the idea that women should devote themselves to their children at home as Sin did, teaching her son the Confucian classics. Yi Yulgok, also known by his pen name Yiyi, appears on the ₩5000 note, with Ojukheon on its front and back. Yi won first prize in the state examination for prospective government officials and went on to serve the king. Unfortunately his advice to prepare against a possible invasion by Japan was ignored – to the kingdom’s peril after Yi’s death, when the Japanese invaded in 1592. You can also find the Gangneung City Museum, with its displays of art, calligraphy and ceramics, within the grounds. English captions are limited. Ojukheon is 4km from downtown Gangneung. From outside the bus terminal, take bus 202 (₩1200, 10 minutes, every 30 minutes) and make sure it’s the one heading to Gyeongpo (경포). The bus stop outside Ojukheon is well signposted.
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Gyeongpo-ho & Gyeongpodae Pavilion
Immediately behind Gyeongpo Beach is Gyeongpo-ho, which attracts local residents looking for a little peace and quiet. There’s a 4km bicycle path along the lakeshore, passing traditional pavilions. The most prominent is Gyeongpodae, from which it is poetically said that you can see five moons: the moon itself and its four reflections in the sea (now obscured by pine trees), in the lake, in your obligatory glass of alcohol and in your own mind. Look out for the huge stone rock carved with hanja characters '人無逺慮難成大業', which mean 'people who don't think far enough find it hard to achieve great things'. A lovely Cherry Blossom Festival is held here in early April, which is really the time to go. If you just miss the cherry blossom, don't worry, the azaleas then flower and make for a gorgeous spectacle. Rent a bike from any of the outfits to the north along the shore of the lake. Gyeongpodae is a short walk from the Chamsori Gramophone & Edison Museum.
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DMZ Museum
This large museum has a surprising amount of English in its narration of the history of the DMZ, as well as exhibits such as US POW letters and extensive photos. It's inside the Tongil Security Park, on the left side of the road as you approach the Goseong Unification Observatory. From downtown Sokcho or the bus stop right outside the intercity bus terminal, catch bus 1 or 1-1 (₩5020, 1½ hours, 44km, every 15 minutes) headed north, but ask if they go to the DMZ as not all do. Get off at Machajin (마차진; a round-trip taxi from Sokcho might cost in the region of ₩70,000) and walk about 10 minutes up to the Tongil Security Park (통일안보공원). Here you present identification and purchase your admission ticket. If you don’t have your own vehicle, the staff might be able to help you hitch a ride, but don’t count on it. It’s 10km to the observatory; pedestrians, bicycles and motorbikes are not allowed.
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Gangneung Seongyojang
Dating to the late Joseon dynasty, this national cultural property was for 300 years the home of a yangban (aristocratic) family. It was built for a descendant of the brother of King Sejong (the monarch who invented hangeul, the Korean phonetic alphabet), and has been restored in keeping with the original floor plan and architectural style. The complex includes residential quarters, a library and a pavilion overlooking a lotus pond. It’s very pretty but somewhat lifeless, like a movie set; in fact, a number of Korean films and TV shows have been shot here. The servants quarters have unfortunately been turned into a gift shop, but you can try your hand at some traditional games outside. To get here, take bus 202 and get off about five minutes after Ojukheon.
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Chamsori Gramophone & Edison Museum
This whimsical museum is a sheer delight. It combines the two loves of private collector Son Sung-Mok: gramophones and Thomas Edison. There are hundreds of antique gramophones (or phonographs, as Edison termed them) and music boxes, as well as a colourful collection of Edison’s other inventions and related devices, from cameras and kinetoscopes to toys, TVs and typewriters. Some of these items are the only one of their kind. Though the tour is in Korean only, the guide demonstrates the use of some antique music boxes and other contraptions – good fun for children and anyone interested in ‘retro’ technology. Take bus 202 for Gyeongpo and get off at the Gyeongpo Beach stop (five minutes after Seongyojang), from where it's a five- to 10-minute walk back.
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Samak-san
The highest mountain near Chuncheon, Samak-san offers incredible views of the town and surrounding lakes. The hike up to the peak (645m) can be strenuous and takes at least two hours, passing pretty waterfalls near the base and several temples. To get to the ticket office, take bus 3, 5, 50 or 50-1 (₩1300, 15 minutes) heading south along Jungang-no in Chuncheon. Get off after about 10km, when you see the green road sign saying ‘Seoul 79km’.
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Gyeongpo Beach
The largest beach on the east coast, and the third-busiest in South Korea, has 1.8km of flat, white sand bordered by pine trees and pleasant waters. It’s besieged by visitors during the official season (13 July to 20 August). At other times, the noisy strip of beachside restaurants and motels doesn’t detract too much from the charm of the famous wind-twisted pine trees which provide good photo-ops.
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Sinheung-sa
This temple complex that has stood on this site since AD 652 but has been destroyed and rebuilt many times. At the entrance are the Four Heavenly Kings (Cheonwang), while the main hall contains a trinity of golden statues representing various incarnations of Buddha. It's a 20-minute walk from the entrance of Seoraksan National Park.
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Anmok Beach
This fine beach strewn with golden sand and shells is framed between the blue, blue sea and a long line of cafes; it's a lovely place for a stroll, to feel the sea breeze in your hair and catch some rays. Buses 501, 502, 503, 504, 505, 508, 509 or 510 can take you right there.