This mountain fortress covers the forested hill of Buso-san (106m) and once shielded the Baekje capital of Sabi within its walls. Structures such as the Banwollu Pavilion offer lovely views of the surrounding countryside. Sandy paths weave through pine trees past temples and pavilions.

One temple, Samchung-sa, is dedicated to three loyal Baekje court officials, including General Gyebaek. Despite being outnumbered 10 to one, he led his army of 5000 in a last stand against the final Silla and Chinese onslaught in AD 660. The Baekje army dauntlessly repulsed four enemy attacks but was defeated in the fifth – the coup de grâce for the kingdom.

In response, it is said, 3000 court ladies flung themselves off a cliff on the northern side of the fortress into the river Baengma-gang, rather than submit to the conquering armies. The rock where they jumped is now called Nakhwa-am, ‘falling flowers rock’, in their honour.

From Nakhwa-am, there’s a rocky and somewhat steep path down to the tiny temple at the bottom of the cliff, Goran-sa.

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