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South Africa’s administrative centre is a handsome city with some gracious old architecture, significant historical sites, prosperous leafy suburbs, and wide streets lined with jacarandas that burst into a beautiful purple haze in October and November. It’s always been more more conservative than Jo’burg – this was the centre of the apartheid regime and its very name a symbol of oppression. However, as the inner city undergoes something of a renaissance, and Pretoria becomes more cosmopolitan, there's a sense that the city is beginning to look to the future.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Pretoria.
Memorial
This stunning park and museum honours fallen South Africans in all major conflicts and adopts an integrated approach to African history. It is a place of architectural imagination and collective healing. Start at //hapo, the museum covering Southern African history at the bottom of the hill; then proceed up the hill to the main park, which provides wonderful views of the city.
Monument
The imposing, art-deco-style Voortrekker Monument was constructed between 1938 and 1949 to honour the journey of the Voortrekkers, who journeyed north over the coastal mountains of the Cape into the heart of the African veld. Surrounded by a 3.4-sq-km nature reserve, it's 3km south of the city and clearly signposted from the N1 freeway.
Square
A statue of Old Lion (Paul Kruger) takes pride of place in the centre of Church Square, which is surrounded by some impressive public buildings. The square was given a facelift in 2017 and is now a more pleasant spot to linger and admire the architecture and busy comings and goings from the municipal buildings.
Museum
This handsome mansion, 20km east of central Pretoria, was built in 1884 for the industrial, mining and agricultural magnate Sammy Marks. Now it’s a fascinating museum that you can only enter on a tour (around five a day, each lasting an hour). It's worth visiting also for the lovely grounds with a shady tea garden overlooking the house.
Notable Building
Designed by Sir Herbert Baker, these sweeping sandstone buildings are the headquarters of government and home to the presidential offices. They're not open to the public, but are worth visiting to view from the front gardens, where you'll find statues of a few former heads of state, including a giant one of an open-armed, grinning Mandela – it's a top selfie spot.
Notable Building
The rebirth of downtown Pretoria has been given a kickstart by the redevelopment of this set of buildings into an events, arts and social hub. Check out the Facebook page for details of various activities held out of this imaginative, street-art-decorated precinct, such as free guided walks of the city centre and the monthly Market @ the Sheds.
Gardens
Located around 9km east of central Pretoria, these gardens cover 7700 sq m and are planted with indigenous flora from around the country. There are 20,000-odd plant species, labelled and grouped according to their region of origin – a visit is a must for keen botanists. By car head east along Church St (Rte 104) for about 8km, then turn right into Cussonia Rd; the gardens are on the left-hand side.
Nature Reserve
This 38-sq-km reserve, 27km south of Pretoria, off Rte 21, is popular with locals who come for fishing in the dam, but is also great for wildlife viewing. Sightings of rhinos are common, often from the grounds of the small tearoom. You'll also spot zebras, various antelopes and perhaps buffaloes.
Fort
There are panoramic views from the 1889 fort that was one of four built to defend Pretoria, although in the end it was never used for that purpose. Located 6km south of the city, it’s one of the best-preserved forts in South Africa, and its museum tells the story of the country’s military history from 1852 to the end of the 1899–1902 Anglo-Boer War.