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East Coast

In both landscape and character, the east coast is where the real barrenness of the Highlands begins to unfold. A gentle splendour and a sense of escapism mark the route along the twisting A9, as it heads north for the last of Scotland’s far-flung, mainland population outposts. With only a few exceptions the tourism frenzy is left behind once the road traverses Cromarty Firth and snakes its way along wild and pristine coastline.

While the interior is dominated by the vast and mournful Sutherland mountain range, along the coast great heather-covered hills heave themselves out of the wild North Sea. Rolling farmland drops suddenly into the icy waters, and small, historic towns are moored precariously on the coast’s edge.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout East Coast.

  • See

    Dunrobin Castle

    Magnificent Dunrobin Castle, a mile past Golspie, is the Highlands' largest house. Although it dates to 1275, most of what you see was built in French style between 1845 and 1850. A home of the dukes of Sutherland, it’s richly furnished and offers an intriguing insight into the aristocratic lifestyle. The beautiful castle inspires mixed feelings locally; it was once the seat of the first Duke of Sutherland, notorious for some of the cruellest episodes of the Highland Clearances.

  • See

    Dornoch Cathedral

    Consecrated in the 13th century, beautiful Dornoch Cathedral, one of the Highlands' loveliest churches, is an elegant Gothic edifice with an interior softly illuminated through modern stained-glass windows. The controversial first Duke of Sutherland, whose wife restored the church in the 1830s, lies in a sealed burial vault beneath the chancel.

  • See

    Falls of Shin

    Four miles south of Lairg, the picturesque Falls of Shin provide one of the best places in the Highlands to see salmon leaping on their way upstream to spawn (June to September). A short, easy footpath leads to a viewing terrace overlooking the waterfall; there are waymarked forest trails here. There's also a gift shop and a pleasant community-run cafe in a salmon-shaped structure, with information panels on the fish.

  • See

    Tarbat Discovery Centre

    This intriguing museum has some excellent carved Pictish stones. When ‘crop circles’ appeared in aerial photos some years ago, the foundations of an Iron Age settlement were discovered around the village church; ongoing investigation revealed a Pictish monastery and evidence of the production of illuminated manuscripts. The exhibition includes the church’s spooky crypt.

  • See

    Spa Pavilion & Upper Pump Room

    In Strathpeffer's heyday, the Pavilion was the social centre and venue for dances, lectures and concerts. These days it's a renovated performing-arts venue. The neighbouring Upper Pump Room has some splendid displays showing the bizarre lengths Victorians went to for a healthy glow. There are also local art exhibitions, as well as artisanal sweets and tourist information in the friendly shop. Opening hours vary.

  • See

    Timespan

    In the heart of Helmsdale, this heritage centre has an impressive display covering local history, including a Pictish stone, the Clearances, the fishing industry and the 1869 gold rush; look out also for the impressive audiovisual content. Up the back are recreations of a traditional croft house, smithy, shop and byre. There are also local art exhibitions upstairs, a geology garden and a cafe.

  • See

    Glenmorangie

    Located on Tain’s northern outskirts, Glenmorangie (emphasis on the second syllable) produces a fine lightish malt, subjected to a number of different cask finishes for variation. The tour is less in-depth than some but finishes with a free dram. There's a more comprehensive Signet tour (£35) and, for real whisky geeks, a full-day Heritage Tour (£130, April to October).

  • See

    Tain Through Time

    Set in the grounds of St Duthus Church is Tain Through Time, an entertaining heritage centre with a colourful and educational display on St Duthac, King James IV and key moments in Scottish history. Another building focuses on the town’s fine silversmithing tradition and this is also a centre for Clan Ross. Admission includes an audio-guided walk around town.

  • See

    Highland Museum of Childhood

    Strathpeffer's former train station houses a wide range of social-history displays about childhood and also has activities for children, including a dressing-up box and toy train. In the complex there’s also a gift shop to buy presents for a little somebody and a peaceful cafe. Call for hours during winter, as it does open on some days.