The oldest part of town is along the river, as evidenced by the ramparts of the old fort, which dates from 1410. Central Torgovaya pl (Market Sq) has long been the town's mercantile heart, with rows of trading stalls for commercial activity coming along the Volga (although these days they're much quieter). One of the town’s oldest streets, tiny ul Kalashnaya, has been converted into two rows of stalls selling the usual souvenirs (matryoshki nesting dolls, woodcarvings, magnets etc).
Rising high above the square is the gorgeously refurbished Church of the Resurrection. Walk south up Proyezdnoy per (away from the river) and follow the road around to the left for about 550m to get to the tent-roofed Assumption Cathedral (Успенский собор; 1699), one of artist Isaac Levitan’s favourite painting subjects.