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Karelia

If you’re looking for wilderness, powerful history and even the Finnish soul, your search starts here.

Densely forested and gloriously remote, the region is a paradise for nature lovers. Bears, wolverines and wolves roam freely across the Russian frontier, and animal hides allow visitors a close encounter. Opportunities to get active abound: the landscape is threaded by hiking routes, white-water rapids and waterways navigable by canoe, and lakes offer idyllic kayaking and boating. In winter, outdoor pursuits include fantastic skiing, dog-sledding, snowshoeing and ice fishing.

Karelia straddles both sides of the Finnish–Russian border, and has a distinct culture, language, religion, cuisine, music and architecture. In Finland's Karelian regions, lakeside Lappeenranta is still strongly connected to its sister cities that have been part of Russia since WWII. Once-battle-scarred Joensuu is now a vibrant university town, and Imatra still recalls its 18th-century golden age as a Russian aristocracy playground.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Karelia.

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Linnoitus
Standing guard above the harbour, this hulking hilltop fortification was begun by the Swedes and finished by the Russians in the late 18th century. Today it contains galleries, craft workshops and fascinating museums, including the history-focused South Karelian Museum and Cavalry Museum, and the Lappeenranta Art Museum. Its Orthodox Church, Finland’s oldest church, was completed in 1785 by Russian soldiers. Pick up the tourist office's free walking guide The Fortress of Lappeenranta, or download its free app.
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Parikkalan Patsaspuisto
What looks like an ordinary roadside rest stop adjoins a woodland area with 256 surreal life-size sculptures of figures in yoga poses. They're the work of sculptor Veijo Rönkkönen (1942–2010), who lived on the site and created 565 of them in his time. The site's current owner uses visitor donations (suggested €5) for its upkeep. Wandering the sculpture-lined trail is extraordinary, but mosquitoes and other biting insects are fierce in the warmer months so bring plenty of repellent.
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Paateri
Between Vuonislahti and Vuonisjärvi, Paateri was the home and workshop of Eva Ryynänen (1915–2001), Finland’s most respected wood sculptor – as well as her greatest work, Paateri Wilderness Church (1991). Carved flowers and animals adorn the beams; the great tree-root altar is framed by a glass window that draws the living pine trees outside into the building. Every wooden surface in the home is embellished, and some beautiful sculptures are displayed in the workshop.
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Parppeinvaara
Karelian traditions are celebrated at this little village 2km south of Ilomantsi. It's named for bard and kantele player Jaakko Parppei (1792–1885), whose songs inspired the Kalevala epic. Listen to the harpsichord-like sounds of this local stringed instrument at the small cultural museum on the hour from noon. Parppeinpirtti does a wonderfully authentic Karelian buffet. The Mesikkä Animal Museum explores the relationship between Karelians and nature; there's a fascinating exhibition on the war years in the Border General’s Cabin.
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Taistelijan Talo
The striking wooden Taistelijan Talo was designed by Joensuu architect Erkki Helasvuo in 1988 to symbolise the meeting of East and West. On the ground floor, the restaurant (buffet €19) offers an excellent all-day Karelian buffet. The WWII museum downstairs has multimedia exhibits, photo exhibitions and weaponry displays relating chiefly to the Winter and Continuation Wars fought along the nearby border. Outside are artillery and vehicles as well as a Big Hat sculpture (the town’s name translates as Hat Mountain).
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Paalasmaa
Lake Pielinen's largest island, Paalasmaa, is the highest in Finland at 225m above sea level. The best view is from the 18m-high wooden observation tower, 3km along a marked trail from the Paalasmaan Lomamajat campground. From the mainland, first take the free summer chain-ferry, followed by bridges across four smaller islands to reach Paalasmaa. The mainland's ferry terminal is 6km east of the Nurmes–Koli road (Nurmeksentie; Rd 6); the turn-off is 3.5km north of Juuka.
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Imatra Rapids
The 1929 construction of Imatra's hydroelectric complex (Finland’s largest) dammed the river, but the watery wonder lives on with the spectacular 20-minute Rapids Show, when the dam is opened to a rousing son et lumière. If your inner daredevil wants to get involved, Imatra Express runs a flying fox over the gushing waters. Both attractions were closed in 2017 due to construction works, but are expected to be back up and running by summer 2018.
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Cavalry Museum
The cavalry are honoured as Lappeenranta’s greatest heroes and the 1772-built former garrison (the town’s oldest building) at the Linnoitus fortress tells how this band of red-trousered warriors began as the finest mounted forces in the Russian Empire and throughout the 1920s and ‘30s became Finland’s national heroes. The skeleton jackets, weapons and implements for castrating horses give a small but intriguing glimpse into that lost world. Following repairs, it's expected to re-open in early 2018.
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Joensuu Bunker Museum
Situated 8.5km northwest of the city centre, off Rd 9, this outdoor museum is part of the Suomen Salpa ('Finland's Bolt'). Built between the Winter War and the Continuation War, the 1200km-long defence line was constructed to prevent Soviet invasion. Concrete and timber bunkers remain today, along with defensive trenches, and weapons including machine guns, anti-tank guns and cannons. In July, volunteers dressed in military attire bring the history of the site to life.