Perched on a rocky promontory, Sortelha is the oldest of a string of fortress settlements on the frontier east of Guarda and Covilhã. The hilltop village, which has changed little over the centuries, is wonderfully photogenic, with its stout granite cottages, cobbled streets and formidable medieval walls. Most spectacular of all is its 12th-century castle, teetering dramatically on the brink of a steep cliff.
You arrive in the lower modern part of the village. From here, it's a short drive, or 10-minute walk up to the medieval centre – follow signposts for the ‘castelo’.
The town holds a medieval fair in the last weekend of September. You can join in the fun by hiring clothes and spending coins from the era.