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Portugal’s oldest and largest protected area, the Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela encompasses 888 sq km of the country’s highest mountains. At its centre, rising above a wild, boulder-strewn planalto (high plateau), is Torre (1993m), continental Portugal’s highest peak. Below, steep mountain roads inch past icy lakes and vast granite outcrops as they corkscrew down thickly wooded valleys. The Serra’s rushing rivers – including the Mondego and Zêzere, which have their sources here – historically provided hydropower to spin and weave the local wool into cloth. Nowadays traditional shepherding is giving way to a service economy catering to weekending tourists.
To explore the park, which offers fine hiking and some limited winter skiing, you can base yourself in the attractive mountain town of Manteigas or, in the park’s western reaches, in Seia. To the south, and just outside the park proper, Covilhã is the area's largest town.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Parque Natural da Serra da Estrela.
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The burel factory originally opened in 1960 and employed 1000 people at its height (burel is a wool fabric similar to felt). After a decline in the industry it was forced to close in the noughties, but thanks to an injection of capital it has since started up again. You can now tour part of the factory and see the production process before buying products at the adjacent shop. Tours are free but you'll need to reserve a spot by emailing factory@burelfactory.com.
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Covilhã used to be the centre of one of Europe’s biggest wool-producing regions, but stray outside the centre and you’ll see the town’s ghostly mills standing empty and forlorn. This interesting museum, housed in the former royal textile factory, traces the area's proud but vanishing history of wool production and cloth dyeing.
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In the heart of Covilhã's gritty historic centre, the 16th-century Igreja de Santa Maria is a startling sight. Its facade is entirely clad in blue and white azulejos (hand-painted tiles) depicting episodes from the life of the Virgin Mary. This traditional creation, actually a 20th-century addition, contrasts markedly with the cartoonish works of street art that appear on several nearby walls. The church is not open to the public.
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This waterfall, which descends the steep gorge of Ribeira de Lenadres, is a magnificent spectacle, particularly in spring. To get there from Manteigas, drive about 4km along the main road towards Torre. Just beyond Caldas de Manteigas, turn left and climb a further 6km to the falls through a lush evergreen forest. Alternatively, there's a popular walking route to the falls – check www.manteigastrilhosverdes.com for details.
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This fascinating modern-art museum pays homage to Abel Manta, a (controversial) Portuguese modernist painter, who was born in Gouveia in 1888. Around 23 of his works are on display, along with paintings by other well-known Portuguese artists.
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In a park to the west of the town centre, this centre provides an excellent introduction to the Serra da Estrela region. A nine-minute film in English or Portuguese takes you flying around the mountains’ main points of interest, while multimedia displays include an interactive scale model of the Serra. It also has helpful information on hiking and is a good place to buy maps.
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This museum, housed in a lovely converted mansion, traces the history of Portuguese toys, from the Victorian to the contemporary, providing an interesting cultural study of Portuguese society, past and present. On display are over 8000 toys made of everything from paper and clay to wood and cork, as well as factory-made dolls and cars.
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This popular museum, set in a huge complex with mill wheels, a restaurant and rustic buildings, celebrates the history of traditional bread making. The highlight is a traditional-style shop where you can stock up on pão (bread) and other local specialities. The museum is 1km northeast of the centre on the road to Sabugueiro.
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This striking footbridge spans the valley east of the old town, connecting the centre with the town's outer suburbs. Zigzagging over the valley floor, the 52m-high structure, accessible by a free lift from the Jardim Público, was designed by João Luís Carrilho da Graça and opened to rave architectural reviews in 2009.