Madeira

Around 3km west of Câmara de Lobos, Madeira's highest sea cliffs rise 580m to loom high over the village and the Atlantic's sapphire expanse. The panorama from the viewing platform is nothing short of spectacular. Spectacular that is, unless you look down – the platform floor is made of glass and hangs over the cliff edge – a knee-weakening, toe-curling experience! Many Rodoeste services heading west now climb up here from Funchal.

Once a run-down area between the Mercado dos Lavradores and the Fortaleza de Santiago, in recent years the 'Old Zone' of merchant's houses and 19th-century fishermen's cottages has been transformed into Funchal's hottest nightlife and restaurant area. Most of the action takes place on Rua de Santa Maria that runs the length of the Zona Velha, packed at night with milling visitors and almost blocked with restaurant tables. It's also here you'll find most of the artworks belonging to the Open Doors Arts Project.

Toboggans were once the only way goods could be carried across Madeira's steep, roadless landscapes and the Monte carros de cesto are a relic of those times. These days, however, the toboggans carry tourists. Made of Camacha wicker with padded seats for two, they are steered by drivers wearing straw boater hats, white outfits and rubber shoes to help them brake the toboggan's exhilarating descent.

Now a museum, the Quinta das Cruzes is a quintessential old Madeiran manor house complete with gardens and a private chapel. Originally the home of João Gonçalves Zarco, the Portuguese captain who discovered Madeira, it was remodelled in the 18th century into a stylish home by the wealthy Lomelino family. The exhibits here examine the life of Madeira's well-to-do from the 15th to the 19th century in an aptly aristocratic environment, the high-ceilinged mansion packed with priceless antiques from across the globe.

Built in 1940 by architect Edmundo Tavares, Funchal's art deco market is one of its top attractions as well as still serving as the island's best fresh food market. Adorned with azulejos (hand-painted tiles) from the mainland, this is the place to experience some of the unique produce Madeira grows on its terraced fields and plucks from the Atlantic.

Porto Santo's 7.5km long sandy beach is the reason most people head to Madeira's little sister. The sand is actually tiny pieces of coral that shelve gently into the cool Atlantic waves. The beach has virtually no development along it and has a wild feel, especially in winter when you can have the whole thing to yourself.

One of the island's top tourist attractions, Madeira's famous botanical gardens are a must for most visitors. Extending over 80,000 sq metres, the gardens are packed with exotic flora, some endemic to the archipelago. Huge cacti, flowers bursting in showers of colour and weird-and-wonderful shrubs and trees vie for your attention. The only competition to the plant life comes in the shape of the aviary in the southern section, which you can visit on the same ticket.

Funchal's 16th-century cathedral once oversaw the world's largest diocese – all of Portugal’s overseas territories from Madeira to Brazil to Angola – and its importance is reflected by the Manueline architectural style and artworks inside. Once your eyes have adjusted to the dim interior, look up at the ornate ceiling made of Madeiran cedar inlaid with shell, rope and white clay. The main altar dates from 1517 and features 12 Gothic panels depicting the Life of the Virgin and the Passion of Christ.

Madeira’s mountains rise from sea level to over 1800m in just 12km, meaning the interior is where the island’s famous ‘vertical reality’ takes over. The sharp basalt peaks, plunging valleys and bottomless gorges are an adventure playground in the truest sense of the words. This is also where you’ll find the best of Madeira’s levada hikes and long-distance trails.

Dramatically set at the bottom of a mammoth cauldron of rock, the village of Curral das Freiras is one of the most popular daytrips from Funchal. Some come to hike down into the village from Eira do Serrado, others to taste the locals' chestnut specialities and cherry liqueur called ginja. There are several walks that head out from the village – the downhill route leads to a bathing area by the river.