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With white sand and waving palms, the islands of the turquoise Archipiélago de San Blas of the Comarca de Guna Yala are a vision of paradise. This is home to the Guna people, the first indigenous group in Latin America to gain autonomy. Though they have had contact with Europeans since Columbus sailed these waters in 1502, traditional identity and way of life remain paramount.
A decade ago the road to the port of Gardi (Cartí) was finished, making the region more accessible than ever. Still off the beaten track, this narrow, 232-mile-long (373km-long) strip on the Caribbean coast with 365 offshore islands stretches from the Golfo de San Blas to the Colombian border.
Community (ie populated) islands numbering four dozen are acre-sized cays that are home to people and livestock. Visitors often prefer the more remote outer islands with fewer inhabitants. Some islands charge a landing/visitation fee.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Comarca de Guna Yala.
Eat
It would be hard to conjure a more idyllic setting than this tiny isle with deep white sand and three long picnic tables under the palms. Blas earned his whites as a Panama City chef, and his presentation is fully professional. Plates of lobster, fish, cabbage salad and fried patacones (plantains) are served with hot sauce on the side.
Eat
This huge wooden restaurant with bar sits over the water and offers dishes of fresh octopus, fish, crab and lobster. Attached to the lodge of the same name, it's connected to the island via a long wooden dock and patronized by yachties. Book ahead.
Eat
This restaurant on Banedup Bibbi (Isla Fragata Chica) is very poplar with sailors and day-trippers for its fish, seafood and chicken dishes. Unusual for island eateries, it keeps late hours.
Eat
Yachties and excursion boats stop by for meals (US$10 to US$15) of quality seafood, rice and salad. The over-the-water setting is a delight.