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Comarca de Guna Yala

With white sand and waving palms, the islands of the turquoise Archipiélago de San Blas of the Comarca de Guna Yala are a vision of paradise. This is home to the Guna people, the first indigenous group in Latin America to gain autonomy. Though they have had contact with Europeans since Columbus sailed these waters in 1502, traditional identity and way of life remain paramount.

A decade ago the road to the port of Gardi (Cartí) was finished, making the region more accessible than ever. Still off the beaten track, this narrow, 232-mile-long (373km-long) strip on the Caribbean coast with 365 offshore islands stretches from the Golfo de San Blas to the Colombian border.

Community (ie populated) islands numbering four dozen are acre-sized cays that are home to people and livestock. Visitors often prefer the more remote outer islands with fewer inhabitants. Some islands charge a landing/visitation fee.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Comarca de Guna Yala.

  • Wildlife Reserve

    Área Silvestre de Narganá

    With excellent birdwatching and good rainforest trails, the 994-sq-km Área Silvestre de Narganá is a wildlife reserve of species-rich primary forest ideally explored with a naturalist guide. It was created by the Guna indigenous community in 1987 primarily to try to keep away squatters. Access the reserve via the Interamericana, going via Chepo, and turning onto the road to Gardi (Cartí) at the El Llano turnoff. Go by sturdy 4WD with plenty of clearance.

  • Museum

    Museo de la Cultura Guna

    Stuffed with objects from everyday life as well as molas and religious artefacts, this small museum provides a good cultural and historical understanding of the Guna. A guided tour with curator Delfino Davies, who speaks some English, will elucidate everything from Guna coming-of-age rituals to funerary rites.

  • Island

    Dubbag (Isla Pino)

    This island's superlatives are threefold: it is the largest island in the archipelago yet has the smallest population (100 people) and it is the only San Blas island to have a hill (scalable in 15 minutes).

  • Island

    Ikodub (Isla Aguja)

    Escape from Gardi Sugdub (Cartí Suitupo) to picture-perfect 'Needle Island,' with its lazy palms, golden sands and gentle surf. Excursions cost from US$35.

  • Island

    Diadup (Isla Coco Bandera)

    A massive shipwreck at the spot known as Wreck Reef is clearly visible at low tide from deserted and idyllic Diadup (Isla Coco Bandera).

  • Museum

    Museo de la Nación Guna

    This badly maintained, privately owned collection of Guna artefacts over two floors includes the usual baskets, molas and gammu burwi (bamboo flutes), though there's an interesting mock-up of a traditional Guna kitchen.

  • Notable Building

    Congreso General Guna

    This is the headquarters of the supreme governmental body of the Comarca de Guna Yala.