Mark Read

Portobelo

This Caribbean fishing village is so laid-back and languorous, it's hard to imagine it was once the greatest Spanish port in Central America. Mules carried Peruvian gold and Oriental treasures to Panama City via the fortresses at Portobelo. Though English privateers destroyed them many times throughout their history, several of these atmospheric colonial fortresses still stand amid village homes.

Today Portobelo’s residents scratch out a living by fishing, tending crops or raising livestock. Though economically depressed, Portobelo is experiencing something of a cultural revival, with renewed interest in Congo art, music (especially punta, better known abroad as reggaetón) and dancing. The town bursts to life every October 21 for the Festival del Cristo Negro, one of the country’s most vibrant and spiritual celebrations.

There are also nice nearby beaches, accessed by boat, and worthwhile diving and snorkeling.

Explore Portobelo

F
Fuerte San Jerónimo
Fuerte San Jerónimo, close to the center of Portobelo, was the largest fortress ever built to protect the bay. Some two dozen embrasures with 16 cannons…
P
Playa Blanca
A 20-minute, US$45 return boat ride from Portobelo will bring you to this lovely white-sand beach on a tranquil cove surrounded by dense wilderness. It…
M
Mirador Perú
Atop a hill overlooking much of the bay is a small but well-preserved watchtower called Mirador Perú, which was built at the same time as Fuerte Santiago…
R
Real Aduana de Portobelo
Under renovation at the time of research, the handsome, two-story Royal Customs House of Portobelo was originally built in 1638 to serve as the contaduría…
P
Parque Nacional Portobelo
Located in and around Portobelo, this 360-sq-km park and Unesco World Heritage Site protects islands and coastal communities of coral reefs, mangroves and…
F
Fuerte Santiago
Approaching from the west, Portobelo's first fort is Fuerte Santiago. Built in 1753, some 14 years after Vernon’s attack, some walls were 3m thick and…
F
Fuerte San Fernando
In 1601 Fuerte San Felipe and Fuerte San Diego were built near the mouth of the bay but were subsequently destroyed by Admiral Vernon in 1739. Fuerte San…
I
Iglesia de San Felipe
This Roman Catholic church dating from 1814 is home to Portobelo's famed Black Christ; it's to the left of the main altar. The faithful attribute scores…
C
Capilla de San Juan de Dios
This small chapel is all that remains of a Catholic church dating back to 1589.

F
Fuerte San Jerónimo
Fuerte San Jerónimo, close to the center of Portobelo, was the largest fortress ever built to protect the bay. Some two dozen embrasures with 16 cannons…
P
Playa Blanca
A 20-minute, US$45 return boat ride from Portobelo will bring you to this lovely white-sand beach on a tranquil cove surrounded by dense wilderness. It…
M
Mirador Perú
Atop a hill overlooking much of the bay is a small but well-preserved watchtower called Mirador Perú, which was built at the same time as Fuerte Santiago…
R
Real Aduana de Portobelo
Under renovation at the time of research, the handsome, two-story Royal Customs House of Portobelo was originally built in 1638 to serve as the contaduría…
P
Parque Nacional Portobelo
Located in and around Portobelo, this 360-sq-km park and Unesco World Heritage Site protects islands and coastal communities of coral reefs, mangroves and…
F
Fuerte Santiago
Approaching from the west, Portobelo's first fort is Fuerte Santiago. Built in 1753, some 14 years after Vernon’s attack, some walls were 3m thick and…
F
Fuerte San Fernando
In 1601 Fuerte San Felipe and Fuerte San Diego were built near the mouth of the bay but were subsequently destroyed by Admiral Vernon in 1739. Fuerte San…
I
Iglesia de San Felipe
This Roman Catholic church dating from 1814 is home to Portobelo's famed Black Christ; it's to the left of the main altar. The faithful attribute scores…
C
Capilla de San Juan de Dios
This small chapel is all that remains of a Catholic church dating back to 1589.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Portobelo.

See
Fuerte San Jerónimo
Fuerte San Jerónimo, close to the center of Portobelo, was the largest fortress ever built to protect the bay. Some two dozen embrasures with 16 cannons…
See
Playa Blanca
A 20-minute, US$45 return boat ride from Portobelo will bring you to this lovely white-sand beach on a tranquil cove surrounded by dense wilderness. It…
See
Mirador Perú
Atop a hill overlooking much of the bay is a small but well-preserved watchtower called Mirador Perú, which was built at the same time as Fuerte Santiago…
See
Real Aduana de Portobelo
Under renovation at the time of research, the handsome, two-story Royal Customs House of Portobelo was originally built in 1638 to serve as the contaduría…
See
Parque Nacional Portobelo
Located in and around Portobelo, this 360-sq-km park and Unesco World Heritage Site protects islands and coastal communities of coral reefs, mangroves and…
See
Fuerte Santiago
Approaching from the west, Portobelo's first fort is Fuerte Santiago. Built in 1753, some 14 years after Vernon’s attack, some walls were 3m thick and…
See
Fuerte San Fernando
In 1601 Fuerte San Felipe and Fuerte San Diego were built near the mouth of the bay but were subsequently destroyed by Admiral Vernon in 1739. Fuerte San…
See
Iglesia de San Felipe
This Roman Catholic church dating from 1814 is home to Portobelo's famed Black Christ; it's to the left of the main altar. The faithful attribute scores…
See
Capilla de San Juan de Dios
This small chapel is all that remains of a Catholic church dating back to 1589.

Guidebooks

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