There’s no tourist infrastructure at all for this enormous reserve, about 20km – two hours by bus by bumpy road – north of Chinandega in the desperately poor town of Puerto Morazán. But this monumental river delta luxuriating along the Honduran border is beautiful, with alligators lounging alongside the lush, mangrove-lined shores, views to Volcán Cosigüina and natural lagoons all aflutter with migratory birds. Unfortunately, it is also threatened: its inaccessibility has emboldened poachers, loggers and dirty shrimping operations.
To visit, head out early for a day trip to Puerto Morazán; several buses leave daily from the Chinandega Mercadito (US$1, two hours), or else you can arrange a taxi ride. Fishing boats holding four, plus your Spanish-speaking guide, cost about US$25 for a four-hour tour of the reserve.
There are no accommodations here (not that you'd want to stay in Puerto Morazán anyway), so you'll have to sleep in Chinandega and bring your own food and water from town.
