Taranaki & Whanganui

A near-perfect 2518m volcanic cone dominating the landscape, Mt Taranaki is a magnet to all who catch his eye. According to Māori, Taranaki travelled from the North Island's volcanic plateau after he lost a battle with Mt Tongariro over the beautiful Mt Pihanga. Geologically, Taranaki is the youngest of three large volcanoes – including Kaitake and Pouakai – that stand along the same fault line. With the last eruption more than 350 years ago, experts say that the mountain is overdue for another go. But don’t let that put you off – it's an absolute beauty and the highlight of any visit to the region, although trampers should check in with DOC information centres before attempting a climb as it's notoriously dangerous.

Access points for the mountain are North Egmont, Dawson Falls and East Egmont. There are DOC centres at North Egmont and Dawson Falls; for accommodation and supplies head to Stratford or Inglewood.

Fans of the oval ball holler about the New Zealand Rugby Museum, an amazing space overflowing with rugby paraphernalia, from a 1905 All Blacks jumper to a scrum machine and the actual whistle used to start the first game of every Rugby World Cup. Of course, NZ won back-to-back Rugby World Cups in 2011 and 2015, but failed ingloriously in 2019: quiz the staff about the All Blacks' 2023 prospects.

Sweeping south from New Plymouth around the coastline to Hawera, the 105km-long SH45 is known as Surf Hwy 45. But don't take the name as gospel: while there is an abundance of black-sand beaches along the way, the road snakes inland through green paddocks and farmland, too. Pick up the Surf Highway 45 brochure at visitor centres.

Dominated (in the best possible way) by Mt Taranaki and surrounded by lush farmland, New Plymouth is the only international deep-water port in this part of New Zealand. Like all port towns, the world washes in and out on the tide, leaving the locals buzzing with a global outlook. The city has a bubbling arts scene (with two superb free galleries), some fab cafes and a rootsy, outdoorsy focus. Surf beaches and Mt Taranaki (Egmont National Park) are just a short hop away.

The pick of Whanganui's many glass studios. Watch glass-blowers working, check out the gallery, take a one-day glass-blowing course ($290, four people max) or a 30-minute ‘Make a Paperweight’ lesson ($80), or just hang out and warm your bones on a chilly river afternoon.

The Whanganui River may not pay taxes or vote, but it has the same rights as a human being. That's because in early 2017 it became the first river to be legally recognised as a person, following a 140-year battle. The new legislation recognises the spiritual connection between Māori iwi and the river, considered an ancestor.

Curling 290km from Mt Tongariro to the Tasman Sea, it’s the longest navigable river in New Zealand, and visitors traverse it by canoe, kayak, jetboat, and bike.

The native bush here is thick, podocarp, broad-leaved forest interspersed with ferns. Occasionally you’ll see poplars and other introduced trees along the river, remnants of long-vanished settlements. There are also traces of Māori settlements, with old pā (fortified village) and kainga (village) sites, and Hauhau niu (war and peace) poles at the convergence of the Whanganui and Ohura Rivers at Maraekowhai.

The Whanganui River may not pay taxes or vote, but it has the same rights as a human being. That's because in early 2017 it became the first river to be legally recognised as a person, following a 140-year battle. The new legislation recognises the spiritual connection between Māori iwi and the river, considered an ancestor.

Curling 290km from Mt Tongariro to the Tasman Sea, it’s the longest navigable river in New Zealand, and visitors traverse it by canoe, kayak, jetboat, and bike.

The native bush here is thick, podocarp, broad-leaved forest interspersed with ferns. Occasionally you’ll see poplars and other introduced trees along the river, remnants of long-vanished settlements. There are also traces of Māori settlements, with old pā (fortified village) and kainga (village) sites, and Hauhau niu (war and peace) poles at the convergence of the Whanganui and Ohura Rivers at Maraekowhai.