Providing a much-loved green space on the western edge of Grey Lynn, Western Springs Park is centered on a lake known to Māori as Te Wai Ōrea ("The Water of the Eels"). A confluence of lava flows funnels water to the springs, and more than 4 million liters bubble up daily – from 1877 to 1902 it served as Auckland's main water supply.
Completing the 1.75km loop trail around the lake takes 30 minutes or so, with optional stops at the excellent children's playground and a formal Japanese garden bequeathed by Auckland's sister city of Fukuoka. An undulating path with pedestrian bridges winds past algae-clad backwaters and diverse vegetation, including willows, papyrus and nikau palms. Expect plenty of avian company along the way. The geese and black swans can get a bit pushy, but you're requested not to feed them. You'll also see lots of pukeko (swamp hens), which at certain times of the year can be territorial; keep your distance.
Neighboring Western Springs Stadium sits in a natural amphitheater and is still occasionally used for mammoth concerts. A 1983 gig by David Bowie is said to have been the largest crowd gathering per head of population anywhere in the world, attracting around 83,000 people. In recent years, the likes of Lorde and Post Malone have played in the adjacent Outer Fields (theouterfields.com); check the website to see if anything is scheduled while you're in town.
By far the biggest event to be held at Western Springs these days is the annual Pasifika Festival (aucklandnz.com/pasifika), a two-day celebration of Pacific Island art, dance, culture and food which takes over the entire park and stadium over a weekend in early March. It’s the largest festival of its kind in the world, regularly attracting more than 200,000 people. During Pasifika, the park is divided into eight villages, showcasing the cultures of 11 different island nations – including Aotearoa/New Zealand. Be sure to come hungry so you can feast on freshly baked panipopo (coconut buns) and ika mata (raw fish marinated in coconut).
