Mozambique

Dhows shifting silently through shallow seas, bruised colonial buildings withering in the tropical heat, and the voices of a church choir competing with the muezzin’s call to prayer. You’ll encounter all this and more within the crowded confines of Mozambique Island, one of the historical highlights of Africa, a fragrant melange of African, Portuguese, Swahili, French and Goan flavours left to mellow in the iridescent waters of the Indian Ocean for centuries.

Half-forgotten until it was recognised as a World Heritage Site in 1991 and still bizarrely overlooked by the average African safari enthusiast, the diminutive island (500m wide by 3km long) protects a romantic cluster of semi-ruined, semi-restored edifices known as Stone Town in its northern half. Further south lies Makuti Town, a crowded collection of dishevelled reed houses that’s home to 15,000 Mozambicans.

With its Mediterranean-style architecture, waterside setting and wide avenues lined with jacaranda and flame trees, Maputo is easily one of Africa's most attractive capitals. It's also the most developed place in Mozambique, with a wide selection of hotels and restaurants, well-stocked supermarkets, shady sidewalk cafes and a lively cultural scene.

The heart of the city is the bustling, low-lying baixa (old town), spreading out north and east from the port. A few kilometres away, the seaside Avenida Marginal is lined with new developments on its inland side, while on the sea side life moves at a more leisurely pace.

Maputo is pricier than elsewhere in the country. Yet prices are reasonable and there's enough selection to make it a good destination no matter what your budget. Getting to know the city is a highlight of visiting Mozambique and essential to understanding the country. Don't miss spending time here before heading north.

Hidden like pirate treasure off Mozambique's north coast, the islands of the Quirimbas archipelago conceal a multitude of secrets, from the brilliant coral reefs of Medjumbe to the ancient baobab trees of Quilaluia. But none of the 31 islands can equal mysterious Ibo, the archipelago’s de facto capital. Haunted by a tumultuous history, and now a bubbling blend of Portuguese, Swahili, Indian and African cultures, Ibo feels as though it fell into a stupor in the 1850s and has yet to awaken.

Elsewhere the Quirimbas are as much about natural beauty as history. Their soft white beaches, dotted with low-key, high-end resorts, are rightly legendary, while the bird and marine life, which can be seen on tranquil diving or walking excursions, is immense.

Today many of the southern islands, including Ibo and Matemo, are part of Quirimbas National Park, which also includes large inland areas on the fringing coastline.

Most people think of Lake Malawi as – well – Malawian, but 25% of its waters lie within Mozambique. Guarding the quieter, less developed side of the lake (which is called Lago Niassa in these parts), the Mozambican shoreline sees a small but steady stream of adventure travellers who quickly realise they've stumbled upon a wild and wonderful African paradise that few others know about.

A small sprinkling of ecolodges and budget bamboo cabins nestles among the sandy coves and giant baobabs that punctuate the shore between Meponda and Cóbuè, offering water activities, barefoot beach fun and integration with local communities.

Within Niassa's deep blue waters are over 500 species of fish, including more than 350 that are unique to the lake. The lake is also home to about a third of the planet’s known cichlid (freshwater fish) species, including the brightly coloured mbuna.

Though Gorongosa’s infrastructure is still being rehabilitated after the ravages of the civil war, and animal populations can’t yet compare with those in other Southern African safari destinations, the wildlife here is making a definite comeback: you’re likely to see impalas, waterbucks, sable antelope, warthogs, hippos, crocodiles and perhaps even elephants and lions. Another major attraction is the birdlife, with over 300 species, including many endemics and near-endemics and abundant waterbirds in the wetlands to the east around the Urema River.

Silhouetted against the horizon on the Zimbabwean border southwest of Chimoio are the surprisingly green and wooded Chimanimani Mountains, with Mt Binga (2436m), Mozambique’s highest peak, rising up on their eastern edge. Much of the range is encompassed by the Chimanimani National Reserve, which is part of the larger Chimanimani Transfrontier Conservation Area (ACTF), together with Chimanimani National Park in Zimbabwe.

It’s possible to hike throughout the mountains, but facilities are scant and public transport practically nonexistent. Consequently most visitors come in their own 4WDs, armed with tents and plenty of supplies. Those who come generally make a beeline for Mt Binga, which can be climbed in two days, with one night spent on the mountain – the best starting point is Chikukwa, where guides (essential) and porters can be arranged. Travellers lucky enough to climb Binga often list it as one of their Mozambique highlights.

With its serene waterside setting, tree-lined avenues, faded colonial-style architecture and mixture of Arabic, Indian and African influences, Inhambane is one of Mozambique’s most charming towns and well worth a visit. It has a history that reaches back at least a millennium, making it one of the oldest settlements along the coast. Today Inhambane is the capital of Inhambane province, although it’s completely lacking in any sort of bustle or pretence. It is also the gateway to a fine collection of beaches, including Tofo and Barra.

The Bazaruto Archipelago has clear, turquoise waters filled with colourful fish, and offers diving, snorkelling and birding. It makes a fine upmarket holiday if you’re looking for the quintessential Indian Ocean getaway.

The archipelago consists of five main islands: Bazaruto, Benguera (also spelled Benguerra, and formerly known as Santo António), Magaruque (Santa Isabel), Santa Carolina (Paradise Island or Ilha do Paraíso) and tiny Bangué.

Since 1971 much of the archipelago has been protected as Bazaruto National Park. You’ll see dozens of bird species, including fish eagles and pink flamingos. There are also red duikers, bushbucks and, especially on Benguera, Nile crocodiles. Dolphins swim through the clear waters, along with 2000 types of fish, plus loggerhead, leatherback and green turtles. Most intriguing are the elusive dugongs.

If you have limited funds, try visiting the archipelago on a dhow cruise from Vilankulo, or come in low season, when some lodges offer special deals.

The colonial-era town of Ponta d’Ouro has boomed in popularity in recent years and is the first Mozambique stop on many Southern Africa overland itineraries. Its best asset is its excellent beach: long, wide and surf-pounded. Offshore waters host abundant life, including dolphins, whale sharks and – from July to October – whales. Thanks to Ponta d’Ouro’s proximity to South Africa, it fills up on holiday weekends. South African rand are accepted almost everywhere.

About 5km north is the quieter and even more beautiful Ponta Malongane, with an expanse of windswept coastline fringed by high, vegetated dunes and patches of coastal forest.