Podgorica's oldest neighbourhood retains traces of the 400 years in which it was the centre of a bustling Ottoman Turkish town. The blocky clock tower overlooking the square was useful for signalling Muslim prayer times. In the maze of streets behind it, two mosques remain. You wouldn't know to look at it, but the Starodoganjska Mosque has its origins in the 15th century. More impressive is the 18th-century Osmanagić Mosque, which Turkish donations have helped to restore.