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Cempoala

© MattGush/Getty Images/iStockphoto

View of the Templo de las Chimeneas, a pyramid at the archaeology site of Cempoala. Cempoala was the first indigenous city state visited by Hernán Cortés, and the inhabitants, the Totonacs, joined forces with him in the Spanish conquest against th...

The remains of a major Totonac settlement of around 30,000 people, dating back to around 1200 CE, sits on the outskirts of modern-day Zempoala, reachable by frequent buses from Cardel (M$20). The temples and buildings at this quiet, grassy site have undergone extensive renovation works, and most are studded with smooth, rounded riverbed stones, though many were originally plastered and painted. Cempoala once had defensive walls, underground water and drainage pipes, and human sacrifices were held in its temples.

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