Subscribe

Mark Read

The North

Northern Mauritius puts on show the best and worst (such as it is) of the country's tourism. Grand Baie, at the centre, has a somewhat over-hyped atmosphere, but it's the sort of place where you can take what you want – Mauritius' best nightlife, some excellent restaurants and numerous excursions, for example – and then head elsewhere.

As places to stay go, we prefer the smaller beachside villages around Grand Baie: Trou aux Biches, Mont Choisy, Cap Malheureux and Pereybère. They're quickly developing, but they generally retain the uncrowded beaches and village feel that first drew travellers to Mauritius.

The inland plain of sugar cane fields – pocked with volcanic boulders stacked by indentured servants – is known as Pamplemousses and gently slopes towards the sea. Here you'll find a triptych of wonderful sites: Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Gardens, Château Labourdonnais and L'Aventure du Sucre – a museum dedicated to Mauritius' traditional colonial export.

Top attractions

These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout The North.

  • See

    Sir Seewoosagur Ramgoolam Botanical Gardens

    After London's Kew Gardens, the SSR Gardens is one of the world's best botanical gardens. It's among the most popular tourist attractions in Mauritius and easily reached from almost anywhere on the island. Labelling of the plants is a work in progress, and you can hire one of the knowledgeable guides who wait just inside or use the maps for a self-guided tour. Golf-buggy tours (adult Rs 250, child Rs 100) are available on request for those with limited mobility.

  • See

    Château Labourdonnais

    One of the loveliest examples of colonial architecture on the island, restored Château Labourdonnais was completed in 1859. Built in teak and sporting an Italian neoclassical style, the perfectly proportioned chateau is filled with sober Victorian furnishings interspersed with some exceptionally lovely design flourishes. Compulsory guided tours last 45 minutes. The Labourdonnais Express (adult Rs 250, child Rs 175) is a train that does a 45-minute tour of the gardens and orchards at 10.30am and 2pm.

  • See

    L'Aventure du Sucre

    The former Beau Plan sugar factory houses one of the best museums in Mauritius. It not only tells the story of sugar in great detail but also covers the history of Mauritius, slavery, the rum trade and much, much more. Allow a couple of hours to do it justice.

  • See

    Notre Dame Auxiliatrice

    Cap Malheureux's much-photographed church, the red-roofed Notre Dame Auxiliatrice, is worth a quick peek inside for its intricate woodwork and a holy-water basin fashioned out of a giant clamshell. A sign strictly prohibits newlyweds 'faking' a church wedding for the photographers here, but newlyweds – genuine or otherwise, photographers in tow – are a common sight in the church grounds. You can attend Mass here at 6pm on Saturday and 9am on Sunday.

  • See

    Galerie du Moulin Cassé

    Housed in a charmingly restored sugar mill, the Galerie du Moulin Cassé features the vibrant floral scenes of painter Malcolm de Chazal (1902–82) and a collection of photographs by Diane Henry. The most impressive display, however, is the collection of over 20,000 terracotta pots lining the vaulted arcs of the ceiling. Ring ahead to check when they're open.

  • See

    Rivulet Terre Rouge Bird Sanctuary

    Just north of Port Louis, bird-watchers will want to take the signposted turn-off to the east that leads to the Rivulet Terre Rouge Bird Sanctuary. Sited on one of the largest estuary habitats in Mauritius, this Ramsar-recognised site draws countless migratory bird species, with large populations present from October to February.

  • See

    Baie de l'Arsenal Ruins

    You can still see the ruins of the French arsenal – along with a flour mill and a lime kiln – within the grounds of the Maritim Resort & Spa at Baie de l'Arsenal, just south of Pointe aux Piments. Nonguests can obtain permission to visit the ruins from the security guard at the hotel entrance. The track begins about 30m inside the gate to the right.

  • See

    Mauritius Aquarium

    This small aquarium has a decent collection of tropical fish (including clownfish), but the real stars are the whitetip reef sharks and hawksbill turtles. There's daily shark feeding at 11am and fish feeding twice a day.

  • See

    Shiv Kalyan Vath Mandir

    Shiv Kalyan Vath Mandir is a vividly coloured Tamil temple that's older than Surya Oudaya Sangam. Remove your shoes before entering.