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The mysterious golden-stone Arabic walled city of Mdina crowns a hilltop, and is a world apart from modern Malta. Its hidden lanes offer exquisite architectural detail and respite from the day-tripping crowds, who largely stick to the main street. Today, with its massive walls and peaceful, shady streets, it is often referred to as the Silent City, a nickname that becomes appropriate after dark.
Throughout the year, the Mdina area hosts excellent festivals and events ranging from food and art through to classic cars.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Mdina.
Church
The cathedral is said to be built on the site of the villa belonging to Publius, the Roman governor of Malta who welcomed St Paul in AD 60. The original Norman church was destroyed by an earthquake, and the restrained baroque edifice you see today was built between 1697 and 1702 by Lorenzo Gafa, who was influenced by the Italian master Borromini. Note the fire and serpent motifs atop the twin bell towers, symbolising the saint's first miracle in Malta.
Gardens
Mdina's ditch was an important element of its fortifications. It was first created in the 15th century, but was rebuilt by the Knights of St John's military architect Charles François de Mondion. More recently, the Mdina city walls had become overgrown with ivy and vegetation; the ditch was filled by 273 citrus and seven olive trees.
Historic Building
The magnificent Palazzo Falson is a beautifully preserved medieval mansion. Formerly the home of artist and philanthropist Olof Gollcher (1889–1962), the palace offers a rare glimpse into the sumptuous private world behind Mdina's anonymous aristocratic walls. A self-guided audio tour leads you from the beautiful stone courtyard through Gollcher's kitchen, studio, 4500-volume library, bedroom and chapel – all decorated with his impressive collections of art, documents, silver, weapons and rare rugs from Azerbaijan and Kazakhstan. Under-fives not admitted.
Museum
The Cathedral Museum's outstanding highlight is a series of woodcut and copperplate prints and lithographs by the German Renaissance artist Albrecht Dürer. However, there are other items of interest, including Egyptian amulets dating from the 5th-century BC and a remarkable coin collection, which includes Carthaginian and Romana-Maltese examples. The museum is housed in a baroque 18th-century palace originally used as a seminary.
Museum
Housed in the elegant Palazzo de Vilhena is an interesting – if old-school fusty – array of displays. Of particular note is the geology section, which explains the origins of Malta's landscape and displays the wide range of local fossils. The tooth belonging to the ancient shark Carcharodon megalodon is food for thought – measuring 18cm on the edge, it belonged to a 25m monster that prowled the Miocene seas 30 million years ago.
Audiovisual
These three presentations about Mdina's history of siege and embattlement come with an attendant waxwork display of knights to really bring the town's past to life. Options include the story of the Knights, the history of Mdina, and life during medieval times. Discount tickets (adult/child €14.50/3) incorporating all three are available.
Historic Building
The residence of the Marquis of San Vincenzo Ferreri, a member of the Maltese nobility. The title was created by King Philip V of Spain and donated to the family in 1716.
Theatre
Audiovisual displays, ghoulish and gruesome mannequins and big screens bring alive the story of the Knights of Malta and the Great Siege of 1565.
Historic Building
During the 1798 Mdina uprising against the French occupiers, the French commander Masson was lobbed to his death from the Bezzina's balcony.