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Sprawling, vibrant and bustling with commerce, Lilongwe feels fit to burst. It may lack Blantyre's charm, but Malawi's capital soon grows on visitors. It's worth spending a day or two here to eat at some great restaurants, ferret out the best malls and discover its hidden leafy oases. It's even got a small wildlife sanctuary at its heart.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Lilongwe.
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This 1.1-sq-km wilderness area is Malawi's only sanctuary for orphaned, injured and rescued wild animals, and plays an active role in conservation. Local residents include a one-eyed lion rescued from Romania, a python, two cobras, baboons, duikers, servals, and blue and vervet monkeys. The entry fee includes a one-hour tour of the enclosures.
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To get up close to Malawi’s movers and shakers, head to the home of the national parliament. It moved in 1994 from Zomba to the ostentatious palace of former president Banda on the outskirts of Lilongwe and now occupies this shiny new building near Capital Hill. Apply for a free guided tour by filling in a form at the gate two days beforehand (and only on weekdays).
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This marble and granite mausoleum is the final resting place of Malawi's 'president for life', Dr Hastings Kamuzu Banda. Between four pillars bearing the initials of his most prized principles – unity, loyalty, obedience and discipline – is a wrinkled portrait of the 'lion of Malawi'. Guides at the entrance will show you around in exchange for a small tip.
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The main market near the bus station in Old Town is a pocket of frenetic activity with all manner of things on sale: bicycle parts, live chickens, vegetables, dustbins, underwear…the list goes on. Be aware, however, that pickpockets operate in the crowds. What’s more, some visitors with large bags have been violently robbed, so travel light to avoid unwanted attention and don’t bring any valuables, such as a camera.
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To experience Malawi’s economic heart, visit the public gallery overlooking the auction floors at the vast Auction Holdings warehouse. It's about 7km north of the city centre, east of the main M1 road to Kasungu and Mzuzu, and best visited during the auction season (April to June). Local minibuses serve the industrial area, but a taxi is easier.