Western Madagascar

If you visit one place in western Madagascar, make it Parc National Bemaraha. A Unesco World Heritage Site, its highlights are the jagged, limestone pinnacles known as tsingy and the impressive infrastructure – via ferrata (mountain route equipped with fixed cables, stemples, ladders and bridges), rope bridges and walkways. Guides are compulsory and cost Ar75,000/135,000 per half/full day for up to four people.

One of Madagascar's most recognisable images, this small stretch of the RN8 between Morondava and Belo-sur-Tsiribihina is flanked on both sides by majestic Adansonia grandidieri baobabs. Some of the trees here may be 1000 years old, with huge, gnarled branches fanning out at the top of their trunks – it’s easy to see why they’ve been nicknamed ‘roots of the sky’.

Few places will make you feel so far away from anywhere than Belo-sur-Mer. The village, sitting on the edge of a small lagoon, appears to have been swallowed up by the dunes and in the heat of the midday sun, time literally seems to stand still.

This is a regional shipbuilding centre and huge cargo vessels are still constructed on the beach just as they were four centuries ago. It’s also one of the country’s main salt-producing areas, with vast salt marshes a few kilometres inland.

This reserve, 60km northeast of Morondava, covers about 12,500 hectares and is a protected area that's popular with scientists and travellers for its amazing wildlife. Kirindy is one of the few places in Madagascar where you are very likely to see the fossa (Cryptoprocta felix), the country’s largest predator, a puma- or dog-like creature with oversized ears and a strangely elongated body. There are also eight lemur species, the giant jumping rat and numerous bird species.

The ‘crazy zebu’ is the most incongruous find in dusty Belo, possibly in all Madagascar. Dishes seem to come straight out of a Michelin-starred restaurant (the chef trained in prestigious kitchens in Madagascar and Europe), with exquisite creations such as pan-fried shin of zebu, prawn medallions, or snapper fillet with peanuts, risotto and coconut sauce, all elaborately presented.

Ankarafantsika (130,026 hectares) is the last strand of dry western deciduous forest in Madagascar. Its excellent wildlife viewing and hiking opportunities make it one of western Madagascar's most popular and rewarding parks. There are at least eight species of lemur and 129 recorded species of birds, including the rare Madagascar fish eagle and the raucous sickle-bill vanga. There are also more than 70 species of reptiles such as small iguanas, a rare species of leaf-tailed gecko and the rhinoceros chameleon.

This series of subterranean rooms and galleries, some of them the size of buildings, are among Madagascar's most impressive. Stretching over 5km, and adorned with stalactites and stalagmites, the caves are penetrated by shafts of light from passageways and holes in the ceiling, giving an eerie feel. However, the stunning natural swimming pools (admission Ar20,000) of deep emerald-green are the main attraction. Each is framed by luxuriant vegetation and ravinala palm trees fanning their leaves like parading ostriches.

Part of the prestigious Relais & Châteaux network, Anjajavy is the quintessential desert-island idyll. The guest villas are luxurious, with polished wood, fine linen and their own private terrace. There are myriad activities – snorkelling, swimming, guided walks through the forest and to local villages – many of them free. Massages, fishing and boat excursions are also available.

Morondava is a terminally laid-back seaside town with sandy streets and gently decaying clapboard houses. There is not much to do or see in the town itself, and most people come here on their way to and from Parc National Bemaraha, Belo-sur-Mer or Réserve Forestière de Kirindy. It's also the starting point for the gruelling three-day, off-road 4WD adventure that connects western Madagascar to Tuléar in the country's south. Closer-to-town attractions include the iconic Allée des Baobabs.