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Madagascar’s western region – divided in two, with no roads linking the south and north – is filled with adventurous possibilities and it's from here that so many iconic Madagascar images originate. There are incredible highlights, from the otherworldly limestone spikes and crippled spires of the Tsingy de Bemaraha and the stomping ground of the fossa at the Réserve Forestière de Kirindy to the fabulous birdwatching of Parc National Ankarafantsika. Throw in the Allée des Baobabs, world-class resorts and so many opportunities to go out into the wilderness and you have a region that showcases all that's memorable about this remarkable country. Travel out here can be rough once you leave behind the paved national highways. Your rewards are priceless travelling epics you'll never forget.
These are our favorite local haunts, touristy spots, and hidden gems throughout Western Madagascar.
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One of Madagascar's most recognisable images, this small stretch of the RN8 between Morondava and Belo-sur-Tsiribihina is flanked on both sides by majestic Adansonia grandidieri baobabs. Some of the trees here may be 1000 years old, with huge, gnarled branches fanning out at the top of their trunks – it’s easy to see why they’ve been nicknamed ‘roots of the sky’.
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If you visit one place in western Madagascar, make it Parc National Bemaraha. A Unesco World Heritage Site, its highlights are the jagged, limestone pinnacles known as tsingy and the impressive infrastructure – via ferrata (mountain route equipped with fixed cables, stemples, ladders and bridges), rope bridges and walkways. Guides are compulsory and cost Ar75,000/135,000 per half/full day for up to four people.
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This isolated park is home to that peculiarly Malagasy landform, the tsingy, a dense forest of jagged rocky pinnacles interwoven with deep canyons filled with streams and trees. It's a bit like visiting the more famous Parc National Bemaraha, but without the crowds. Trails weave among the rocks, and rope bridges cross the canyons.
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This series of subterranean rooms and galleries, some of them the size of buildings, are among Madagascar's most impressive. Stretching over 5km, and adorned with stalactites and stalagmites, the caves are penetrated by shafts of light from passageways and holes in the ceiling, giving an eerie feel. However, the stunning natural swimming pools (admission Ar20,000) of deep emerald-green are the main attraction. Each is framed by luxuriant vegetation and ravinala palm trees fanning their leaves like parading ostriches.
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Ankarafantsika (130,026 hectares) is the last strand of dry western deciduous forest in Madagascar. Its excellent wildlife viewing and hiking opportunities make it one of western Madagascar's most popular and rewarding parks. There are at least eight species of lemur and 129 recorded species of birds, including the rare Madagascar fish eagle and the raucous sickle-bill vanga. There are also more than 70 species of reptiles such as small iguanas, a rare species of leaf-tailed gecko and the rhinoceros chameleon.
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Dramatic Cirque Rouge is one of western Madagascar’s most famous sights. This amphitheatre of eroded rock is tinted in a rainbow hue of colours, including red, pink, ochre and white – for the full effect, arrive late afternoon and stay until sunset. A stream runs along the bottom of the valley and through a small ravine down to the sea (a lovely 10-minute walk).
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This reserve, 60km northeast of Morondava, covers about 12,500 hectares and is a protected area that's popular with scientists and travellers for its amazing wildlife. Kirindy is one of the few places in Madagascar where you are very likely to see the fossa ( Cryptoprocta felix), the country’s largest predator, a puma- or dog-like creature with oversized ears and a strangely elongated body. There are also eight lemur species, the giant jumping rat and numerous bird species.
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At the T-junction with Ave de France, there is an enormous baobab tree (circumference, 21m!) thought to be well over 700 years old. It is considered fady (taboo) to touch it.
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Not to be confused with the Réserve Forestière de Kirindy, the deliciously remote 72,200-hectare Parc National de Kirindy-Mitea, which surrounds Belo-sur-Mer, is one of Madagascar’s newest parks and it's well worth the effort to get here. The main draw at Kirindy-Mitea is the birdlife – 58 species in total, 18 of which are endemic to the region – although there are also nine lemur species, as well as reptiles.