Sublime Ohrid is Macedonia's most seductive destination, with an atmospheric old quarter cascading down a graceful hill, crammed full of beautiful churches and topped by the bones of a medieval castle. Its cobbled streets are flanked by traditional restaurants and lakeside cafes, but it's not a complete tourist circus just yet and still has a lived-in feel – particularly in the upper reaches of the Old Town.
Best of all is that you can be skipping through historic monuments one minute and lying on a deck chair with your toes in the water the next – its location right on the edge of serene Lake Ohrid is hard to beat, and a lovely little town beach and boardwalk help make the most of its natural charms. A holiday atmosphere prevails all summer, when it's a good idea to book accommodation in advance. Ohrid's busiest time is from mid-July to mid-August, during the popular summer festival.