Lebanon

Eat your way around the world in Beirut

Is there anything more distinctly Lebanese than a greasy late-night kebab? Perhaps not. But while Beirut may have built its culinary reputation on a lamb grill or falafel wrap, the city’s restaurant critics are nowadays more likely to extol the virtues of Chinese dim sum or Californian sushi. The cafe owners and restaurateurs that fled for Europe and the Gulf states during the decade-long, 1980s civil war have returned in droves, bringing tastes and flavours from around the world. Nowadays, the city’s motto is make lunch, not war.

Walk in any direction, from an early breakfast to a late Lebanese dinner, and it is hard not to be wowed by the city’s epicurean charms. Take the temperature of the city’s eat-fast, party-hard attitude at Momo at the Souks, the latest venture from celebrated Algerian restaurateur Mourad Mazouz, who already made his mark in London, Paris and Dubai with his hip mix of North African cuisine and New York-style cocktails. Part of the gargantuan Beirut Souks, a multi-brand shopping complex in downtown Beirut, Momo has to be seen to be believed -- its exotic Yves Saint Laurent-inspired fine-dining room is a mash up of surreal mirrors, antique furniture and one-off Cubist couches. Do not miss the Moroccan pastille (meat pie) with wood pigeon, washed down with a house-signature vodka mojito. In the same complex, check out La Cave de Joël Robuchon a wine cellar from the world-renowned French chef and Michelin star restaurateur.

Mike MacEacheran

Lonely Planet Writer

Lebanon in a week: the ultimate road-trip guide

With just a week to spare in Lebanon, that tightly-packed powerhouse of Middle Eastern history perched beside the Mediterranean and about half the size of Wales, you can – with the help of four trusty wheels - embark on a road-trip across some of the Middle East's most spectacular scenery, and to some of its most fascinating, friendly and off-the-beaten-track destinations.

Touch down in Beirut and rent a car, perhaps with Advanced Car Rental which offers friendly service, competitive rates, and a free Arabic elevator-music CD thrown in. You will need, however, to be a competent, confident driver to handle the Lebanese penchant for white-knuckle driving without breaking a sweat. Take it slow (if that’s at all possible in the vehicular maelstrom of central Beirut) and try not to develop the local penchant for haring around blind mountain bends.

Amelia Thomas

Lonely Planet Writer