Northern Laos

Cave

Joining a truly fascinating 18-point tour is the only way to see Vieng Xai's seven most important war-shelter cave complexes, set in beautiful gardens backed by fabulous karst scenery. A local guide unlocks each site while an audio guide gives a wealth of first-hand background information and historical context. The Kaysone Phomvihane Cave still has its air-circulation pump in working order and is the most memorable of the caves.

National Park

The 2224-sq-km Nam Ha NPA is one of Laos' most accessible natural preserves and home to clouded leopards and possibly a few remaining tigers. Both around and within the mountainous park, woodlands have to compete with pressure from villages of various ethnicities, including Lao Huay, Akha and Khamu. Since 1999, an ecotourism master plan has tried to ensure that tour operators and villagers work together to provide a genuine experience for trekkers while ensuring minimum impact on local communities and the environment.

Archaeological Site

Almost as mysterious as Xieng Khuang's more famous jars, this unique, unfenced collection of standing stones is thought to be at least 1500 years old. Spindly stones up to 3m tall are interspersed with disks that formerly covered funerary sites. With some over a metre in diameter, these 'families' of stones do have a certain magic. Chartered tuk-tuks from Sam Neua will ask around 500,000K return.

Cultural Centre

Decades after America's Secret War on Laos, unexploded bombs and mines remain a devastating problem throughout this region. Visit the thought-provoking UXO Information Centre, run by British organisation MAG (Mines Advisory Group), which has been helping to clear Laos' unexploded ordnance since 1994. The centre's information displays underline the scale of the bomb drops, and there are also examples of (defused) UXO to ponder. Donations are encouraged: US$15 pays for the clearing of around 10 sq metres and a commemorative T-shirt.

Village

Phongsali's famous tea village, Ban Komean, lies 14km out of town and commands stupendous valley views that sweep nearly 360 degrees when you stand on the promontory behind the school. The tea bushes are reputedly more than 400 years old and said to be the world's oldest. A fair percentage of the village's authentic Phu Noi homes are set on stone-pile platforms. Rent a tuk-tuk from Phongsali (250,000K return) or hire a bike from the tourist office for 50,000K per day.

Archaeological Site

The biggest and most accessible, Site 1 of the Plain of Jars features over 300 jars relatively close-packed on a pair of hilly slopes pocked with bomb craters. The biggest jar, Hai Jeuam, weighs around 25 tonnes, stands more than 2.5m high and is said to have been the mythical victory cup of Khun Jeuam. The bare, hilly landscape is appealing, although the views of Phonsavan airport seem discordant. There is a cafe, a gift shop and toilets near the entrance.

Cave

Well-signed beside Rte 3, 1.5km east of Nam Eng village, is this extensive, accessible cave system, which has a 700m section open to visitors. The main limestone formations include old stalactites encrusted with crystal deposits. Local guides accompany visitors through the cave, but speak no English and have weak torches (flashlights). Extensive lighting is already wired up, but there are often power cuts, meaning your own torch is a handy accessory. Allow around 45 minutes for the visit.

Cave

Well-signposted from the northern end of the main strip, the Phanoy Cave is a cool relief on a hot day. The cave lies about halfway up a steep track that leads to a striking viewpoint over the Nam Ou and Muang Ngoi Neua below. Definitely take a torch (flashlight) for the cave as a cluster of Buddha relics lies about a 10-minute walk through a pitch-black passageway.

Lake

To fully appreciate the charm of Sainyabuli's setting, drive 9km southwest to Nam Tien lake, access point for the Elephant Conservation Center. A restaurant here is perched above the dam, offering views across emerald rice paddies and wooded slopes towards a western horizon where the Pak Kimin and Pak Xang ridges overlap. The 3km asphalt road to Nam Tien branches west off the Pak Lai road 500m before the southern bus station, just before a bridge (6.5km from central Sainyabuli).